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  #61  
Old 04-04-2016, 06:31 AM
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Very insightful views on top tuning! Thanks for sharing how does a luthier know when the braces are right? Do they have a "perfect pitch" for the tap that they look for in every guitar? I know some resort to methods like chaldni patterns, deflection testing, speakers, etc. But I believe many still stick to their hands and ears to feel and hear the resonance/pitch of the top?

And Larry seems like a great bloke!
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  #62  
Old 04-05-2016, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TomB'sox View Post
Great detail as always, thank you. I thought for a minute the router slipped on that top and a new top was needed!!!!! The reality of what it was is a slightly better option to be sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Wong
Very insightful views on top tuning! Thanks for sharing how does a luthier know when the braces are right? Do they have a "perfect pitch" for the tap that they look for in every guitar? I know some resort to methods like chaldni patterns, deflection testing, speakers, etc. But I believe many still stick to their hands and ears to feel and hear the resonance/pitch of the top?

And Larry seems like a great bloke!
Thanks, TomB and Marcus. You're quite welcome. Thanks for following this thread.

The intuitive aspect of luthiery is quite amazing and somewhat mysterious. It seems to develop over time after building many guitars. Larry is (in my estimation) 75% intuitive, 25% analytical. e.g. he and I discussed the brace width for this guitar. Larry typically goes with .28", I asked him to consider .25". Factors we discussed were the stiffness of the top, the size of the body, the fact that it is a short scale. In the end, Larry mulled it over for a day, and ended up going with .25".

Luthiers certainly run the gamut from intuitive to analytical. I suspect those who take a more analytical approach to building still rely on their intuition to make certain decisions.

Yes, Larry is a very good bloke. Kind, patient, generous. A good friend.
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  #63  
Old 04-14-2016, 09:59 PM
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Default Body Shots

Larry has been busy the last week in his studio and catching up on repairs.

I dropped by and had lunch with him (Subway...lunch of champions), and got a few pics of the body with binding in place. It has not been sanded, but it's looking pretty good, if I do say so.






Ribbons and beeswing, oh my!












Here's something a bit different for those who like vintage electrics...

While I was at Larry's, an older gentleman showed up to pick up a repair. He came in with a worn case, put it on the table, and popped it open...




1955 Les Paul Gold Top, all original, original owner. Don't see that everyday...
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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam

Last edited by OddManOut; 04-15-2016 at 02:20 AM.
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  #64  
Old 04-15-2016, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OddManOut View Post
Here's something a bit different for those who like vintage electrics...

While I was at Larry's, an older gentleman showed up to pick up a repair. He came in with a worn case, put it on the table, and popped it open...




1955 Les Paul Gold Top, all original, original owner. Don't see that everyday...
Original owner?? Oh, man, that is too cool!
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  #65  
Old 04-15-2016, 12:49 AM
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That is a seriously nice looking guitar!! Coming right along!
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  #66  
Old 04-17-2016, 08:36 AM
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Default Fretboard/Headplate Glue Up

Quote:
Originally Posted by pgilmor View Post
That is a seriously nice looking guitar!! Coming right along!

Many thanks! I think we're looking at a June completion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Deft Tungsman
Original owner?? Oh, man, that is too cool!
Yes, it was pretty cool to see a truly vintage guitar. Talk about mojo. The owner said in his cowboy drawl "This guitar has been in so many bars, I take it to AA meetings." Classic!



Larry glues the fretboard and the headplate to the neck.

The FB is positioned, then nails driven in through fret slots 1 and 11 to anchor it in place. These holes will be covered by the frets. Using this method, the positions of the FB and the headplate can be accurately reproduced, thus allowing for FB and HP removal as needed.







The headplate is positioned using the nut blank as a reference.






Here the anchor nail is visible in the headplate. The resulting hole is where one of the tuner holes will be.




The headplate caul accommodates the anchor nails.
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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam

Last edited by OddManOut; 04-17-2016 at 11:17 AM.
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  #67  
Old 04-17-2016, 08:53 AM
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Default Fretboard/Headplate Glue Up 2

Larry installs the edge markers. This is standard white rod stock.










Now rubberbands and clamps for the win.






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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam
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  #68  
Old 04-17-2016, 10:26 AM
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Default Fretboard/Headplate Glue Up Completed





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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam
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  #69  
Old 04-21-2016, 07:48 AM
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Default Head w/ Logo and Tuners

Here is the head with the pearl logo inlaid.




Decisions, decisions...

I have to decide on tuners. Which would you choose?

Gotoh 300 Series Black.



Gotoh 510 Mini Gold/Black Keys



Grover Sta-Tite Gold Open Back


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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam
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  #70  
Old 04-21-2016, 09:57 AM
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I kinda like the open backs for some reason on this headstock.
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  #71  
Old 04-21-2016, 11:53 AM
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Gotoh 300s have my vote.
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  #72  
Old 04-21-2016, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB'sox
I kinda like the open backs for some reason on this headstock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemoman View Post
Gotoh 300s have my vote.
Thanks for your input, gents.

I feel the open gear tuners are the most appropriate for a traditional 12-fret guitar in a stylistic sense. However, all my other guitars have open gear tuners. I would like something different. As it turns out, the two styles of Gotoh tuners here are totally interchangeable. I like the black tuner bodies with the more modern black buttons. So I'm going that way. It gives the most spartan look to my eye. If I want to change, I can swap tuners, buttons, get some after-market buttons, etc..







The final choice...for now. Gotoh 300 black tuners with the modern black buttons.






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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam

Last edited by OddManOut; 04-21-2016 at 09:02 PM.
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  #73  
Old 04-21-2016, 09:00 PM
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Default Binding Leveling and Body Sanding

Larry levels the bindings and sands the body. I saw the body in person and it has a wonderful silky, ribbon-and-beeswing mahogany look. It popped nicely under sandpaper...should be even better under finish.

The rosewood bindings are leveled to the body.




The beeswing is poppin' a bit.



The LMI glue shows up under black light so the minute traces can be detected and sanded off.





A few shots of the sanded body.








My 00-12 body and the body of the EIR/Adi dread currently being built.
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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam

Last edited by OddManOut; 06-11-2017 at 08:01 AM.
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  #74  
Old 04-22-2016, 07:15 AM
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Default Neck Shaping

Larry shapes the neck.

First Larry rough shapes base of the head for the volute.







Now a bit of layout at the base of the head.







Now the shaping commences. The top and middle of the neck are brought into close-to-final profile.







Note here that the heel end is still very square.
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My memory of the Sierra sky
Has been clouded by the savage fire
Feel the glory of the global slam

Last edited by OddManOut; 04-22-2016 at 12:50 PM.
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  #75  
Old 04-22-2016, 07:19 AM
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I love a mahogany body with rosewood trim. Simply elegant.
You've got to be pretty excited, it's looking great!

Steve
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