#31
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Get that baby over to the guy and have a full setup done. Then - and only then - can you begin to make judgments on whether it’s the guitar for you or not. As always, the standard disclaimer applies - IMHO. However, I realise that YMMV, and I’m cool with that.
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John Brook ‘Lamorna’ OM (European Spruce/EIR) (2019) Lowden F-23 (Red Cedar/Claro Walnut) (2017) Martin D-18 (2012) Martin HD-28V (2010) Fender Standard Strat (2017-MIM) Last edited by JayBee1404; 08-17-2022 at 01:02 AM. |
#32
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#33
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Anybody know what the neck is like on the D-28 Modern Deluxe? Would it be easier to play?
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#34
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Input has been deleted
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2022 Martin D28 Modern Deluxe 2022 Collings CJ35 1998 Gibson SJ200 Various other acoustics Various electric guitars and amps Last edited by Gas; 08-17-2022 at 02:15 PM. |
#35
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Try playing with a capo on if you have one. If it’s much easier to fret notes in the first position with the capo on rather than with it off then your nut slots are probably too high.
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#36
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The stock nut setting of my Martin is ok, however my idea of correct looks more like .004" which is to say a relatively heavy paper (US bills measure .0043"). 2 thin sheets of paper stacked would be .007-.008". When I get a round tooit, I'll be filing the OM nut slots down to make that .004". However I find her quite playable, although I can definitely feel the difference in say a 12-53.5 set (SUS medium tension) which is a string that's heavy enough to dig in hard, also harder to play. I more often mount 11-52 or lighter sets and the difference is clear. Before spending 2 months with the SUS mediums, I spent a month playing D'addario silk & steels at 11-47. My current Thomastik flat wounds are a super skinny 10-38, I liked these as well as the silk & steel, and it's so novel to not hear any string squeak when sliding a note or chord. Next up will be T-I Spectrum silked bronze at 11-52, which seems to be my sweet spot on size, I'm looking forward to contrasting them with the D'A silked set. Next after that, I'll probably mount up plain old D'addario bronze 11-52. I'll play those for a while and then mount up SCGC low tensions, which I've been anticipating for a while as I audition just about every other option out there :-). Don't discount string options in in factoring playability & tone. |
#37
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+1 for getting a professionally done, full setup.
My 2019 HD-28 also has the MLO neck, which I have no issue with whatsoever. When I handed it to my neighbor (a long time Taylor fan with a fine, well played-in 814ce who doesn't particularly care for Martins at all) he said it was not only the best-playing Martin he had ever experienced, but was as easy-playing as his Taylor. Too, I actually prefer my HD-28 neck over the one on my Taylor. Go figure. It would be well worth it to get the guitar properly set up as others have mentioned in more detail (nut, saddle, neck, etc).
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2019 Martin Custom Shop HD-28 (Adi/EIR) 1998 Taylor 914ce (Engelmann/EIR) 1995 Takamine EN10c (cedar/mahogany) 2013 Yamaha FG720S-12 (Sitka/mahogany) |
#38
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You, however, seem to be quite sensitive to small differences. And here's the thing. You need to get out and try some of these things for yourself rather than trying to piece together everybody else's opinion and hope that they apply to you. You've been trying for months to think through every little detail based on measurements and other people's experiences, and that can work to a certain extent. But, particularly if your needs are very specific and your tolerance for variation is very narrow, there is absolutely no way to think your way into it. So if it is at all possible, make a day of it, or a weekend, and get your hands on as many things as possible to see what actually works for you. You may luck into it the way you've been going at it, but you also might just find yourself disappointed over and over again, and paying lots of money in return shipping costs. And I'm sorry if that comes off as anything other than the sincere bit of advice that it's intended as. But, for months, you've been trying to work through this as an intellectual exercise, when it just isn't. It's about feel, and there's only one way to figure feel.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#39
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I feel when someone spends money out of their comfort zone they expect so much out of the item they purchased.
Last edited by Lkristians; 08-17-2022 at 03:20 PM. Reason: No longer necessary |
#40
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Thanks for your post. And I take it the way you intended it, and I appreciate it as such. |
#41
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It's really not hard to do your own set-ups. You need a set of files, a set of feeler gauges, a mechanic's 6 inch rule, some sandpaper, and patiences.
There are plenty of online videos expaining it. You should really learn to do it yourself. |
#42
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I'll get on my soapbox and shout to the world, FRET LEVEL, FRET LEVEL, FRET LEVEL. Only then can you get a very flat neck with .004 relief that makes .013s easy to play. But if you don't like a neck, you don't like a neck.
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2007 Martin D 35 Custom 1970 Guild D 35 1965 Epiphone Texan 2011 Santa Cruz D P/W Pono OP 30 D parlor Pono OP12-30 Pono MT uke Goldtone Paul Beard squareneck resophonic Fluke tenor ukulele Boatload of home rolled telecasters "Shut up and play ur guitar" Frank Zappa |
#43
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I'll never own a martin, I HATE their necks..
now,, Hate is a strong word I know but I do... No thanks! Alllllll Set..
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Ray Gibson SJ200 Taylor Grand Symphony Taylor 514CE-NY Taylor 814CE Deluxe V-Class Guild F1512 Alvarez DY74 Snowflake ('78) |
#44
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Well, here I go again, I know, but.... could you try and explain why you hate Martin necks? I mean, how do they differ, for instance, from the necks on the guitars that you own, in your signature -- a Gibson, Guild, Taylor, Alvarez?
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#45
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You should not have much difference, if the action is notably higher without the capo you may need to have the nut looked at. A lot of modern Martins have 2 5/32 string spacing at the saddle. This bothers me immensely and I can’t play those guitars very well. I prefer 2 1/4 or greater. I’ve made on exception for a Collings with 2 3/16- but it gets the least amount of playing time. If you are like me- look for vintage series martins- they often have wider spacing. |