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  #46  
Old 02-02-2017, 11:12 AM
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These 2 guitars are as different from each other as an 18 and a 28 would be, though not in that way. They both have the Rosewood sound, but the UMGF is more authoritative and crunchy, while the AGF has a more diverse palette of tone colors and greater clarity. I'd choose the former in a heartbeat as a band guitar, but for sitting around a picking the latter is my fav. I love them both and don't have to play favorites, thankfully; neither is likely to stay around here in the long run.
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  #47  
Old 02-04-2017, 01:58 PM
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Default SBAIC guitar progress

I have talked a bit about the guitar I will be giving away at the August 2017 rendition of the Santa Barbara Acoustic Instrument Celebration. If you but a ticket to the show and bring the stub to the bin on my table, you will be entered to win this guitar. If you come for two days, you get two chances.

The guitar is my WRX version of an Adirondack over California Walnut 00 sized 13 fret to the body instrument. Ihas my standard varnish finish, and quite a bit more decoration that I usually put on my simplest offering, as it commemorates the event, and I love my birds on the fingerboard, so I did that instead of the dots I usual include to keep the price down.

I offer the following photos to give some insight into how the birds get from paper to Pearl inlaid in Ebony. Sadly I cannot cut and take meaningful photos at the same time, but as you can see they are all different despite starting from the same line drawing, and that is what I call "evidence of the hand".















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  #48  
Old 02-04-2017, 04:36 PM
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Tuners are in the SBAIC guitar, and the bridge is next, once I've made it.

These are Schertler's base tuners through a MadRose head plate, truss rod cover yet to come:


This is my second true bird's beak, though not as Martin did aesthetically. The back strap is from the Walnut back cut off bits:
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  #49  
Old 02-04-2017, 08:00 PM
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Default SBAIC bridge

I made the bridge for the SBAIC guitar this afternoon, and will likely glue it on tomorrow. This is a rather nice piece of Dalbergia spruceana, more often called Amazon Rosewood. You'd have to be more of an expert than I am to tell it from BRW, unless you could smell it, as I did, and then I am enough of an expert.



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  #50  
Old 02-04-2017, 09:21 PM
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I like! I like!
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  #51  
Old 02-05-2017, 03:19 PM
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Default SBAIC bridge gluing

Although I do not typically admit to working on Sunday, I DID glue the bridge onto the SBAIC guitar today. That means there is every chance that I will get the strings on and hear this puppy tomorrow! I have made this guitar using mostly PVA glue, which is only the second guitar in 20 years which is not primarily HHG. I cannot see how the neck to body connection or the bridge connection could be as good with PVA, however, so I did use HHG for those.

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  #52  
Old 02-08-2017, 11:55 AM
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Default Dream Series #8

I am behind by at least three guitars as far as showing completion photos is concerned. I will get to that, but I have been liking my outdoor pictures lately, and the weather is abysmal.

So today I have started a new guitar. It has been a few years since I have made a guitar for Dream Guitars, but before the banking debacle i made quite a few. 7 of those were what Paul Heumiller calls "Dream Series", and since I made a special label for the series, it makes sense that we will make another of those . . . sort of. The "Dream Series" is not exclusive to my work, and a number of other luthiers also make "Dream Series" for Paul, but in our case is mean something fairly specific. Our "Dream Series", so far, are all Brazilian Rosewood/EuroSpruce fully asymmetrical MultiScale 15" and 16" guitars, what I call JB-15 and JB-16. This one will be a JB-16 with Brazilian Rosewood supplied by Paul and Rivolta Italian Spruce for the top. All of this wood has been in my shop for over ten years.

Here are the back and top ready to be joined:


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  #53  
Old 02-13-2017, 04:27 PM
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Default Dream Series

Here are the sides as supplied by Paul, followed by the sanded sides and and the joined and back-stripped back.




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  #54  
Old 02-14-2017, 07:06 AM
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That's a beautiful set of rosewood Bruce. Is that a tapered backstrip or is it the camera angle?
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  #55  
Old 02-14-2017, 10:38 AM
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Yes, the backstrip is tapered. I have been doing that on my "standard " guitars for about 15 years. The goal is for the backstrip to appear to flow into the graft. They are actually different tapers, of course, and it is surprisingly challenging to get the illusion just right.
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  #56  
Old 02-14-2017, 12:05 PM
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I hope I'll be able to play these two that you are sending to DG after they are finished, since I live close to Paul. As you know, I do love your guitars.
  #57  
Old 02-14-2017, 02:22 PM
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Two? You may know something I don't, yet.
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  #58  
Old 02-14-2017, 02:35 PM
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Default JB-15-Dream Series

Top's done, and the end blocks are glued on:
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  #59  
Old 02-14-2017, 03:00 PM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer View Post
Yes, the backstrip is tapered. I have been doing that on my "standard " guitars for about 15 years. The goal is for the backstrip to appear to flow into the graft. They are actually different tapers, of course, and it is surprisingly challenging to get the illusion just right.
Bruce, I would just like to clarify, if you would be so kind, as to why the tapers are different...

I am in the process of starting my first (well under the radar) build, and this tapered back strip melding into the end graft is a feature which I had figured into it , thinking I was being innovative, but I see I am 15 years away from being innovative...

The way I am constructing the back strip/end graft mating is to glue up the tapered strip initially overlength, ie the length of the back plus the height of the end bout, then glue up the two back halves with the center strip in between, which I assume is how you do it as well, and cut off the surplus to form the end graft. The angle will then remain the same ...obviously it requires precise measurement and cutting to get the widths at the "mating points" spot- on, and the width of the binding plays a part as well.

But as far as I can see the angle of the taper should remain the same , no ?
  #60  
Old 02-14-2017, 04:11 PM
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That is also quite a different technique with the end blocks I believe. I have not seen them being glued to the top first, rather most seem to glue them to the rim assembly and then to the top when the top is mated to the rims...hmmm as Artie Johnson use to say hmmmm veeerrry interesting.
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