Simple & Dirty Repair to worn soundboard?

[fyldenut]

Hello Folks,

I have an old and pretty beat up (but lovely sounding!) Lowden O10 that needs attention.

Basically the wear on the sound board where a pick guard would usually be plus also above the sound board is actually through the top layer and is damaging the raw wood underneath. My style (percussive) means that it is getting worn quickly in both places now that the top painted / satin layer is gone.


Basically I am looking for a quick and dirty solution for something that I can put on the affected areas that won’t suffocate the sound but will protect from any more of the wood being “gouged” and rubbed away. Something clear would be ideal, I don’t care about the look of the bare wood I just want to protect it without affecting the soundboard in a negative way from a sound perspective.

In terms of cosmetics, I have little care for how my guitars look my only care is how they play, how they sound and of course their long term longevity. My guitars get a lot of use recording, gigging practising etc. I very much view them as a tool rather than an ornament. I guess the scars and knocks add character but I guess I am probably causing irreversible damage by continuing playing and wearing into the wood of the sound board.

I did stupidly try some very thin sticky back plastic but this did not help and made the situation worse upon removal as it took some more of the top layer off!

While I could take it to a luthier, it seems that since I am not bothered about matching the finish, only protecting the wood, surely I could do this myself? Additionally, I am currently in the middle of recording and could do without taking my guitar for repair and being without it for a few weeks.

Many thanks in advance!

[fazool]

Don't do anything.

Anything you do will make it worse and make it sound worse.

The best thing you can do is place a removable static-cling pickguard in place when you are strumming aggressively.

[Rodger Knox]

You could probably seal the area with shellac. It will provide some protection, but not much. Shellac isn't nearly as tough as the varnish that was originally on the Lowden. I believe it's Lowden that uses varnish instead of nitro.

[Phil Munsterman]

I had a top that was very worn in several places. I mixed up some 30 min epoxy and painted it on with a small brush. It was easy to control the thickness needed and turned out great. I'm not an expert, but it worked well for what I was trying to accomplish ( sealing the raw wood and preventing further damage ) Phil

[Bruce Sexauer]

I would seal it with CA. CA dries to acrylic and is quite hard. It can be padded on a bit like french polish. This is done by putting your hand into a plastic bag (I use seal-a-meal bags), putting a drop or two at a time on the affected area, and smearing it around with your protected finger. With a little practice one can produce quite good results. No accelerator is necessary, it dries when it is spread thin. More can be added on top at any time. Be careful not to drop any outside of the work area. An added advantage is that, if the wood is clean and the original finish natural, it can cause the damage to virtually disappear to the casual observer.

[HarryQ]

I agree with Mr. Sexauer. CA (superglue) can be used as a finish if you're very careful with the application. I've used paper towels, but if they bond to your finger it gets pretty hot! The plastic bag idea is really interesting and I'll try it out next time.

[Frank Ford]

Cyanoacrylate is very interesting stuff, and it can be quite, er, "exciting" to work with. Like many other materials, it pays to learn how to use it an practice various techniques.

With practice, you can even learn to brush it with reasonable comfort, but you'll burn up any number of acid brushes or other disposables as you learn and work.

I use Q-tips with superglue quite frequently, and occasionally wipe it on as well, using those blue "shop towels. I find them far more successful in allowing a bit of extra time before the cyanoacrylate fires off. I'm not fond of gloves, so most of the time I use a wad of towel gripped with a hemostat.

[srick]

Man oh man - Once, again, let's hear it for AGF. Where else can you receive the benefit of such expertise? I almost wish I had a damaged guitar I could try the CA on.

[printer2]

Careful with the CA, make sure you have good ventilation. Did a fretboard with it, can't remember what I spread it around with. For what it is worth, many glues do not stick to vapor barrier poly.

[John Arnold]

I like to use a piece of cardboard as a squeegee to spread CA. Cardboard that is between 0.010" and 0.015" thick seems to have the right flexibility. I prefer cardboard with a slick finish, like a magazine cover. When the CA hardens on the edge of the cardboard, I simply trim it off with scissors and go again. The beauty is that I get an endless supply of the right stuff through the mail in the form of unsolicited advertising.

Careful with the CA, make sure you have good ventilation.

I am extremely allergic to CA fumes, so I only use odorless CA, which is much more expensive. The advantage with odorless (especially for finish touchups) is that is is not as 'hot', meaning there is a bit more working time, and it never foams (turns white) when it cures.

[CaffeinatedOne]

If you have any lung issues, be careful. I had CA trigger an instant asthma attack until I learned to use it with a small fan in the area. I happened to get a snootful which is easy to avoid. But, hey crikey it was not fun.

[Ned Milburn]

My preference would be the same as Roger's - shellac. I presently use a shellac mixture that has other resins in it as well, so it should be more robust than a shellac-only mixture. (Ask me in 25 years!)

For future reference, Stew-Mac sells thin plastic sheeting for "invisible" pickguards. This material can be a god-send for people who rub, tap, bang, smash their guitars for more modern sound capabilities. There are many pick and other wounds I have seen on guitars that could have been easily prevented by a judicious use of this material.

[maxtheaxe]

Originally Posted by Frank Ford

Cyanoacrylate is very interesting stuff, and it can be quite, er, "exciting" to work with. Like many other materials, it pays to learn how to use it an practice various techniques.

With practice, you can even learn to brush it with reasonable comfort, but you'll burn up any number of acid brushes or other disposables as you learn and work.

I use Q-tips with superglue quite frequently, and occasionally wipe it on as well, using those blue "shop towels. I find them far more successful in allowing a bit of extra time before the cyanoacrylate fires off. I'm not fond of gloves, so most of the time I use a wad of towel gripped with a hemostat.

Just curious...has anyone ever tried penetrating epoxy on something like this? One product in particular, "Smiths" is frequently used in wood boat repairs because it remains very flexible once cured...seems that it would vibrate freely with the wood on a guitar.

When mixed 50-50 with the catalyst it is not much thicker in consistency than tap water, so it penetrates very well and would certainly toughen up the area.

[fyldenut]

Many thanks folks, I've been away for a bit so initially only saw the first couple of replies until now and have just called back to find a load more information and advice.

I got one of the static cling gaurds but unfortunately it does not cling to the guitar. It does on one of my more glossy guitars bu the O10 finish (what's left of it) does not seem to allow the gaurd to stay put.

The idea to use cyanoacrylate has certainly got my interest since it is so readily available. May I ask if it is better to use thinner or thicker stuff? I'm assuming the thicker stuff would be best since it does not set as quickly?

Some of the bad areas are actually gouged a good 1 mm - 2mm.

Thanks!

[Bruce Sexauer]

I would use the thinner stuff but it probably doesn't matter. Getting an even protective coating would be my priority rather than a level surface.