#1
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Is it okay that my bridge pins are sticking out different amounts with strings on?
Hey All,
Hoping some people can help me with a bit of an OCD thing (maybe) that I have noticed with bridge pins on my J-45. Admittedly, when changing strings at some point, I got the bridge pins mixed up and forgot which bridge pins were supposed to go in for each string. However, they still all seem flush and even without strings. When putting strings on, however, I've noticed the bridge pins are higher or lower depending on the string. In the pictures below, the low E string bridge pin is highest, and it is actually slightly tilted diagonally as well. Most of the other strings are at least somewhat similar in height. Is this anything to worry about, and are there any action steps I should take? Thanks so much! https://imgur.com/a/Ozets4o Last edited by FiggyPudding18; 07-14-2021 at 02:05 PM. |
#2
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It's fine.
If it bothers you you can sand them down so they fit better, and then label the.
__________________
"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#3
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A thought
This is one of those questions that needs an inspection of the bridge pin holes and bridge pins and strings and bridgeplate in order to offer an answer. My opinion is that OP's problem is likelier to be uneven bridge pin hole condition than differences among mass-produced bridge pins. But there's no answer without a hands-on look around. The answer might involve strings' engagement with bridge pins and bridgeplate, bridge pins and their holes may not be involved. No telling.
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#4
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Quote:
The fix is relatively simple - here's the pins on a Huss & Dalton I owned before and after I modified the pin slots. I didn't touch the guitar, all I did was extend the slot in the pin a little more above the collar to allow a little more room for the thickish string end winding - like the pin on the right in this picture. I used a very fine diamond burr drill bit on my Dremel, this is the exact kit I bought. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/392825418515 I also number my pins now too.
__________________
Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird Last edited by Brucebubs; 07-14-2021 at 05:29 PM. |
#5
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I think some overthinking might be happening. Altering bridge pins when the holes in the bridge are incompletely adjusted seems to me to be a logical dead end.
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#6
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If the pins all sit down flush with no strings on how is the bridge 'incompletely adjusted'?
__________________
Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird |
#7
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The ideal solution is to slot the bridge and use unslotted pins. I always prefer to have identical pins for interchangeability. Doing this has several advantages, not the least of which is the ability to size each slot for the size of the strings. With slotted pins, the slots are large enough for the 6th string, which means a sloppy fit on the other five.
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#8
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Fair point... might have read right past that part.
__________________
"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#9
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A thought
I read right past that comment, too. But if the pins fit nice all by themselves but get snaggletoothed when strings are added, then I suggest slotting the bridge so that the pins aren't holding the strings in place, just making sure they don't pop out when they shouldn't.
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#10
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Quote:
__________________
Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird |
#11
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If you were to slot the bridge, do you just slot the corner where the string exits the hole or do you slot the entire length of the hole? I have an old fender guitar I wouldn’t mind trying this on.
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#12
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a thought
OJT is good for flipping burgers, not high-precision instrument work. I suggest to OP to get an experienced tech to do bridge slotting.
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#13
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It depends on the pins. Unslotted pins require a slot for the entire length. Those slotted pins that have a slot that stops at the collar may require a slot at the top corner. This is commonly called ramping.
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#14
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Is this a consistent problem at the same string?
The pin-set on my newest guitar looked good when I got it from the luthier. After the first or second string change the low E pin was considerably proud of the others. At the next string change the pin-sets were all even again. No idea why - maybe something going on below with the ball of the string? Maybe the pins were interchanged? Could have been either, or something else. Next time you change strings mess around with the problematic string (assuming there is one in particular) and various pins and see if anything changes the way the pin sits. |
#15
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Pro tip: Slotted pins become unslotted pins when you rotate them around
The ball end of the string should sit nice and tight up against the bridge plate and the best way to accomplish that is to make a keyhole slot through the whole length of the hole and use unslotted pins. The slot only needs to be deep enough so that it hols the ball end in. When done properly you should be able to pull a pin out under full string tension and the string will not pop out and in fact will remain in tune. I'm not suggesting you try that, it's just in theory and to illustrate a point. |