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  #16  
Old 01-13-2021, 12:24 PM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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I've used a number of glues, only two of which have worked well (I did a lot of testing before I used any of them on actual guitars). I don't know how well they last, the oldest is only 5 years old. I use ultra-thin CA glue, which tends to run all over and make a bit of a mess, which is fine if it's a new build. I've recently used the gel thickness CA glue, which is far more controllable and doesn't make nearly as much of a mess, but acts slower. I've used straight acetone, which wicks in really well and holds fine, no mess, but it needs to be held firmly for quite a long time, it's not very fast. I've made cellulose glue by dissolving binding scraps in acetone, great for repairs to chip binding or blending seams, edges. Kind of like binding bondo. I'd probably try Ducco but I can't seem to buy it in Canada (or they won't ship it, I forget which).
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  #17  
Old 01-13-2021, 01:42 PM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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Duco (name derived from DuPont Company) is rated extremely flammable because of the acetone. Regulations do not allow shipment via air. It is slowly being legislated out of existence, apparently. Since the local dollar stores dropped it, I can no longer source it for a reasonable price.
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2021, 08:40 AM
redir redir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Arnold View Post
Duco (name derived from DuPont Company) is rated extremely flammable because of the acetone. Regulations do not allow shipment via air. It is slowly being legislated out of existence, apparently. Since the local dollar stores dropped it, I can no longer source it for a reasonable price.
I have found Stewmac's Bind-All to be a good replacement.
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  #19  
Old 01-18-2021, 08:00 AM
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dnf777 dnf777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirwa View Post
It is the one job I would not encourage anyone to do that has no experience in repairing.

These are high end guitars finished usually in full gloss.

I do these for Martin under warranty and I get nervous every time one comes in. Two are currently sitting in my shop waiting to be done.
If youre willing to give up a secret, may I ask what you fill binding gaps with? I know, there shouldnt be any, right? . For whatever reason they sneak by, I’ve been told to use thick CA, but resisted. (Talking nitro finishes) I found on cheaper guitars that clear nail polish is perfectly suited. And since its laquer, it blends invisibly when scraped and buffed. Any thoughts?
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2021, 08:39 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
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I fill binding gaps with binding dissolved in acetone to make a paste. I've done quite stupid stuff with that mush, but let it harden fully, scrape it back, and it looks like new.
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Brian Evans
1935 Dobro model 25 resonator
1943 Paramount (made by Kay) mandolin
1946 Epiphone Zephyr electric archtop
1957 Hofner Senator archtop
1962 Gibson Melody Maker electric
1963 National Dynamic lap steel
1996 Landola jumbo
1998 Godin Artisan TC electric
1998 Epiphone SG electric
2010 GoldTone PBR-CA resonator
2015 Evans electric archtop
2016 Evans archtop
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  #21  
Old 01-19-2021, 12:31 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Originally Posted by dnf777 View Post
If youre willing to give up a secret, may I ask what you fill binding gaps with? I know, there shouldnt be any, right? . For whatever reason they sneak by, I’ve been told to use thick CA, but resisted. (Talking nitro finishes) I found on cheaper guitars that clear nail polish is perfectly suited. And since its laquer, it blends invisibly when scraped and buffed. Any thoughts?
No secret, I graft new binding in or are you talking lacquer voids after the binding has been refitted

Here is one where I am grafting new binding in



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