#16
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if possible I'd like to essentially raise the saddle to something like 1/8" instead of 4/64 and have the action somewhere around 5-6/64ths...
not quite sure how that would be possible...?
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>>---> '97 Martin 000-28EC <---<< >>---> '13 Martin D18 Authentic 1939 <---<< |
#17
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I agree
Sounds good? Plays well? Ain't broke, no fix needed.
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#18
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Quote:
As long as there is "enough" saddle projecting from the bridge there is no advantage to more. If it doesn't buzz or lose sound at a projection of 1/16", there is no real advantage to having it 1/8", but to allow for further lowering. If you can't lower it further, and want to, without it buzzing, a neck reset is likely required. |
#19
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Quote:
__________________
>>---> '97 Martin 000-28EC <---<< >>---> '13 Martin D18 Authentic 1939 <---<< |
#20
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Quote:
Stiffness of the top dictates how much bridge rotation you get for a given string height above the top (and a given string gauge, or tension). I have seen a quote for the optimal bridge rotation in degrees, but I forget what the number is. In general, with a higher saddle you get a stronger attack and a bit brighter sound. Sometimes that includes more volume, but not always. The tradeoff is less sustain and what some perceive as a more abrasive tone. Lower saddle = smoother, warmer and more sustain (as well as possibly being quieter). |
#21
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Quote:
__________________
>>---> '97 Martin 000-28EC <---<< >>---> '13 Martin D18 Authentic 1939 <---<< |
#22
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Quote:
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#23
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Quote:
A similar question I get asked occasionally: "My guitar is buzzing, can I lower the action?" The answer is maybe, but it definitely involves more than just lowering the saddle. I have been called a miracle worker, but I cannot violate the laws of physics. |