#16
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Here is another update, and milestone one.
We now have a closed box. I was really hoping to get the binding channels cut today but ran out of time and now I may have to wait until next thursday which is annoying. Enjoy The top after being glued on Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr Front of the closed box after the excess was trimmed away Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr Back view after being excess trimmed away Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr 3/4 view Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
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David |
#17
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So here we go again with another quick update.
Despite not being able to get a lot of time in the workshop lately, i've managed to get the bindings on and as such it looks much better now. I added a stabilised maple inlay for the end graft and i'm definitely happy with how that looks. The obligatory pictures Routing the binding channels Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr gluing and taping the rocklite bindings Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr front side with the bindings on Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr back side with the bindings on Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr stabilised maple end graft Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
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David |
#18
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It's coming along very nicely.
A word of caution regarding method. It is inadvisable to leave that much overhanging waste on the top and back. It invites splitting the top and/or back along the grain at the extremes of upper and lower bouts. (Don't ask me how I know this. ) As you become more assured in your work, you'll find you don't need to leave that much excess - an 1/8" or so is more than enough once you have your processes sufficiently controlled and are comfortable with them. |
#19
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Quote:
actually leaving that much overhang was for a reason, a) on my previous build it seemed my mould actually stretched or moved significantly and it ended up such that i was lucky i had left so much overhang because if i hadn't the top would barely have fit. I was probably paranoid of that happening again so I once more left plenty of overhang, but this time round my new mould is much better, it definitely won't move or stretch and is much more accurate and so in the future you're right i can probably leave less overhang b) the bandsaw in the workshop i go to has a very deep blade, its at least 1 inch possibly 1.25 inches. Its pretty tricky to cut anything but the shallowest of curves with it and that makes it awkward to cut close to the outline of a guitar and also without ripping chunks out of the underside of the top when cutting across the grain, although that could just be the brittleness of the redwood i was using here. I don't remember so much of that happening with the spruce.
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David |
#20
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Wow! This is really turning out to be a beautiful guitar. Who gets it?
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#21
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One option would be to change the blade, typically a 5 minute operation. Another would be to use a disk sander to remove the excess waste after cutting with the 1 or 1 1/4" blade, but before attaching bracing. |
#22
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I'm sure i'll find a solution for next time.
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David |
#23
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Looks great, keep those pics coming.
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#24
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Thanks!
As soon as i do anything on it, i'll update the thread and the pictures are the most interesting bit so there will definitely be plenty of those coming Quote:
Well, its kinda semi-commissioned, I know someone who is interested in it and if i get a really good price I might take an offer for it, but otherwise it will end up with my dad.
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David |
#25
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Hi David,
Have you thought about just using a coping saw for your curves,,simple and cheap,, Enjoying the build hope it continues well for you, Best |
#26
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I’d have a hard time letting that one go. |
#27
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Oh, I like this end wedge design! Something to keep in mind for my own build coming up in September. I'm not looking to use dyed maple like you have, but an abstract design of scrap pieces joined together.
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1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup 2018 Custom Built OM - Silver Quandong Top, Aussie Blackwood B&S, Fishman Matrix Infinity Mic Blend Pickup 2021 Faith Neptune Baritone - Solid Englemann Spruce Top, Solid Indonesian Rosewood B&S, Fishman INK3 Pickup 2022 Yamaha SLG200S Silent Guitar |
#28
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Would this damage the grain structure
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Brian -2003 Taylor 355 -2016 Maestro Victoria Madagascar Rosewood CSB |
#29
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Perhaps that would be an option but I don't have one and a coping saw is one of those tools i had bad experiences with in the past so its not one of my go to tools. Planes are in the same category, i've been getting back into them with my finger planes, but i think every time in my entire life that i've used a larger plane, i've ended up causing damage and it makes me very nervous about using them. one day if i can afford it i'll buy a good quality plane and then hopefully i will damage less work and might start using them more. There is actually a smaller band saw in the workshop that has a smaller blade on it that would cut curves better but it got damaged and its been out of commission for months now. Quote:
Before installing it I laid out the wedge on its own as per a 'typical' end graft and it looked ok but kinda like the blue was thrown in as an afterthought, so i tried it this way and I think it looks a lot more deliberate and purposefully incorporated. It would probably be ok, you'd need to watch at which point you need to turn around and plane the other direction. I trimmed the excess on a table router with a bearing cutter and it took me 3 minutes, even then you have to watch which direction you run the grain against the spinning router cutter to avoid grain being ripped out but its fairly straightforward
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David |
#30
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If it wasn't for the white in the maple, I would have suggesting adding the white purfling as a border right around the wedge. But what you have done is excellent!
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1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup 2018 Custom Built OM - Silver Quandong Top, Aussie Blackwood B&S, Fishman Matrix Infinity Mic Blend Pickup 2021 Faith Neptune Baritone - Solid Englemann Spruce Top, Solid Indonesian Rosewood B&S, Fishman INK3 Pickup 2022 Yamaha SLG200S Silent Guitar |