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  #1  
Old 03-06-2021, 03:47 PM
caveman101 caveman101 is offline
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Default Emerald bridge pinless solution??

Hi all,

I own a Chimaera but it was prior to the pinless bridges that are available now.

Does anyone have an emerald with this feature and would be able to take a snap of the insides?

I've waited forever for power pins to make a 12 string version but given up now.

I'm wondering if it would be possible to 3D print something similar and epoxy it to the interior
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  #2  
Old 03-07-2021, 03:52 PM
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Simon@Caulfield Simon@Caulfield is offline
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Someone on here 3d printed a part in the past, and glued it in but i cant find the post now. Maybe someone else will remember! I dont think theres anything on the inside as standard, its just a key-hole shape that the string slides forward into catching the ball.

Why the desire to go pinless? I personally prefer pinned for ease of string change. ☺️

Quote:
Originally Posted by caveman101 View Post
Hi all,

I own a Chimaera but it was prior to the pinless bridges that are available now.

Does anyone have an emerald with this feature and would be able to take a snap of the insides?

I've waited forever for power pins to make a 12 string version but given up now.

I'm wondering if it would be possible to 3D print something similar and epoxy it to the interior
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  #3  
Old 03-07-2021, 09:57 PM
redi redi is offline
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X20



I changed my strings today for the first time and indeed found it pretty fiddly. About as fiddly as string changing on my menagerie gets (other non-acoustics have bits that fall out).

I started off on the high E side and used a wood chopstick to hold the ball end in place, but it popped out on me twice as I was tightening. Changed the utensil holding it in place to something that fit better and bent the ball end twice, once just up, and a second where it exits the bridge hole to get a hook shape. This time all was fine.

Did the bending thing on the rest without issue. If I had a golf tee I might try that if its not too big. Might be able to use a skinny bridge pin, I haven't tried yet.

The cf plate is sort of like those brass Plate Mate things you use in guitar with a worn out bridge plate except the notches here are a bit more pronounced.

Last edited by redi; 03-08-2021 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 03-09-2021, 11:15 PM
caveman101 caveman101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgavy View Post
Someone on here 3d printed a part in the past, and glued it in but i cant find the post now. Maybe someone else will remember! I dont think theres anything on the inside as standard, its just a key-hole shape that the string slides forward into catching the ball.

Why the desire to go pinless? I personally prefer pinned for ease of string change. ☺️
Thanks for the reply,seems like pinless would be easier! Don't have to had the pin removal tool then too!
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2021, 11:17 PM
caveman101 caveman101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redi View Post
X20



I changed my strings today for the first time and indeed found it pretty fiddly. About as fiddly as string changing on my menagerie gets (other non-acoustics have bits that fall out).

I started off on the high E side and used a wood chopstick to hold the ball end in place, but it popped out on me twice as I was tightening. Changed the utensil holding it in place to something that fit better and bent the ball end twice, once just up, and a second where it exits the bridge hole to get a hook shape. This time all was fine.

Did the bending thing on the rest without issue. If I had a golf tee I might try that if its not too big. Might be able to use a skinny bridge pin, I haven't tried yet.

The cf plate is sort of like those brass Plate Mate things you use in guitar with a worn out bridge plate except the notches here are a bit more pronounced.
Thank you so much for sharing!!!

I'm thinking that design could be improved a little with an indent for the balls.....I'll take a look at the inside of mine and see how flat/feasible it will be to make one.

Might just use perspex though ...no spare CF hehe
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Old 03-10-2021, 06:50 PM
redi redi is offline
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I think once you get the hang of it and bend the string ball ends into a a j-hook shape it is sort of a non-problem on popping out unless you let the string loose.

If Emerald would use those Gotohs that look identical to 510s they use now but with the invisible lock mechanism i.e. the MG (magnum lock, not the "trads") where you just crank the tuning key and they lock-up the string, it would get even easier - just pull the string tight and crank. Unlocks automatically when you run the tension off with the tuning key. I have these on another guitar and the are pretty ingenious.

https://g-gotoh.com/global/wp-conten...Magnum2-En.mp4

I'll probably put a set on my x20 if I can track them down.

Last edited by redi; 03-10-2021 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 03-10-2021, 10:43 PM
casualmusic casualmusic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caveman101 View Post
Thank you so much for sharing!!!

I'm thinking that design could be improved a little with an indent for the balls.....I'll take a look at the inside of mine and see how flat/feasible it will be to make one.

Might just use perspex though ...no spare CF hehe
Perspex might dampen (?) some of the sound.

Carbon fibre in small finished and panels are available for hobbyists to cut and drill to spec. Search 'carbon fiber panels".

Cheers
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  #8  
Old 03-11-2021, 05:56 AM
CarolD CarolD is offline
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Locking tuners would solve this pretty easily. I put some on my PRS Hollowbody and they make string changes a snap.
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2021, 09:44 AM
seannx seannx is offline
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Changing the strings on my pinless bridge X20 was a challenge. Bending the ends and using a capo helped, but it still took longer. I had the saddle lowered (to specs supplied by Kevin) by local luthier Bob Groat, which improved the action with no buzzing. When I picked it up he included the perfect solution that he had made for holding the ball end in while changing strings. It’s a 2” length of 3/16” diameter wood dowel. At one end it tapers down from 3/16" to 1/8” diameter over 3/4”, and it’s the ideal size to hold the string securely.
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Last edited by seannx; 03-21-2021 at 05:02 AM.
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2021, 02:20 PM
rpmguitar rpmguitar is offline
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I guess I'm not seeing the benefit to the Emerald pinless design. Lowden's and Breedlove's pinless designs are great, but even with those I never really had much preference for them over simply using well-fitted pins. Plus, pins give us more stuff to tinker with...brass, ebony, tusq, bone, FWI like Jarvis at Guitar Spa, etc.

Rick
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  #11  
Old 03-13-2021, 08:53 PM
redi redi is offline
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Next time I change my x20 strings I am going to see if any of the bridge pins I have in my parts bin are useful as a temporary holder, maybe try a capo too. Of course shaping the string end into a j-hook is part of the process that helps.

I still see a nice set of locking Gotoh 510s in the future.

I have to say this pinless bridge is not all that far off from stringing up a pin bridge with a platemate installed (and no pins).

https://img1.stewmac.com/product/ima...plate-mate.jpg
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2021, 10:31 PM
caveman101 caveman101 is offline
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I'm almost considering putting velcro on the removable back plate and just gluing a plate internally with holes big enough for the strings but not the balls....

Just checking some other pinless guitars...cool designs!
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2021, 04:58 AM
seannx seannx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redi View Post
Next time I change my x20 strings I am going to see if any of the bridge pins I have in my parts bin are useful as a temporary holder, maybe try a capo too. Of course shaping the string end into a j-hook is part of the process that helps.
I tried a bridge pin and it was too large. Bending the string end and using a capo helps, but nowhere near as much as the 2” length of 3/16” diameter wood dowel that tapers down to 1/8” over 3/4” at one end does. It holds the ball end perfectly in position.
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Voyage-Air VAD-2
Martin SW00-DB Machiche
1968 Guild F-112
Taylor 322e 12 Fret V Class
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