#1
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Strap button installation on old guitar
I have a '44 Gibson J-45 recently restored to playing condition. Maple neck. Great player, not a museum piece.
I've installed lots of strap buttons, usually using the Collings suggested way of doing it... http://www.collingsguitars.com/img/f...install-lg.gif The question is... I don't think I've ever drilled into maple before, or even 74 year old wood. Any additional tips for drilling into old wood, being a bit drier? (I don't think it'd be different than a new guitar, but I thought that I'd ask!) Thanks! |
#2
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The only advice I would give is that the older wood will typically be harder (ever try to drive a nail in a 100 year old 2x4? They feel like they turned to iron.
I don't know what happens to the wood but it seems to get really hard. So, I imagine the bit will try to wander more on older wood. So maybe use a center punch, then a small starter bit.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#3
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Don't know how you usually drill... Maple is hard. You might think about drilling an undersize hole first, then the correct size.
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Breedlove, Landola, a couple of electrics, and a guitar-shaped-object |
#4
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Use the correct size bit; one that is just a teensy bit larger in diameter than the center shaft of the screw (minus the threads) you're using.
And lubricate the screw threads with wax--candle wax, paste wax, etc. If you have no wax, bar soap works well too. Maple is very hard and it's easy to strip the head on a screw when driving it into maple. The wax is a huge help, and it doesn't negatively affect the screw's holding power. |
#5
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Old Maple
Not a lot of difference between properly cured new maple and old maple.
For this type of installation I would start with a awl and a slight push to make a tiny dimple in the finish so not to crack it. Next using a pin vice and the smallest drill you have drill to the depth you need. I would start with # 60 Next using a pin vice again drill about half the final diameter to the depth you need. Last drill the pilot hole diameter. Lube the screw ( I use only bees wax on wood screws ) and install the strap button. A nylon washer under the strap button will help with the fit to the surface.
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"My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it." "If you try to play like someone else, Who will play like you". Quote from Johnny Gimble The only musician I have to impress today is the musician I was yesterday. No tubes, No capos, No Problems. |
#6
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I'd determine what size the screw is and look up what the proper drill size is and use that. By the way, if it's a regular tapered wood screw, you can actually get tapered drill bits. Drilling the right size hole helps avoid cracking the wood and helps the screw grip properly.
If the screw that comes with the strap button is brass, I'd get an identically sized steel screw, drive that first then back it out and use the brass screw in its place. That way you don't risk stripping the slot or breaking off the head since the steel is considerably stronger than the brass. |
#7
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Since it's a j45 I'd probably install it in the center of the heel rather than the treble side. I'd use an aged strap button and put it down right where the heel gets flat. Pilot hole just a hair larger than the shaft of the screw and wax on the screw. Intall the screw slowly going in and out a little to give as little "shock" to the wood as possible.
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#8
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Good advice above. I'll add don't split the heel.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#9
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A washer is good. Maybe leather rather than nylon.
I put a piece of painters tape on the surface where I'm going to drill for the strap button. Idea is to avoid damage to the finish, don't know if it's necessary but what the heck. |
#10
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I just added a strap button to my 1944 Gibson LG-2, on the treble side of the heel and I was able to find a vintage button to use. Really looks as though it's been there forever. Very stable and looks the part.
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Dump The Bucket On It! |