Renovating an old guitar

[Drake06]

Hey guys!
I'm a newcomer, and before I start learning, the first task would be to renovate an old guitar, so I want to ask some(maybe dumb) questions.
The saddle is cracked, so I want to replace it, I ordered this for starters, the size fits, no need to sand it, but the old one doesn't have those "cut outs" in them. Will that be a problem, or will it work just fine?
The second thing, the fretboard is really dirty, I got some Dunlop 6554 lemon oil, but before I apply it, I want to scrub the board with a 2000 grain sandpaper. Is that ok to use? I heard that steel wool isn't the best, because it leaves behind its material.
Also got new strings, I don't think that should be a problem to put on, but is there something else I should watch out for when I'm doing my setup?

[Truckjohn]

Just so we understand...

Are you planning to learn to repair guitars or are you trying to learn to play guitar..

From your post - it sounds like you are trying to learn to play guitar.

Thanks

[Drake06]

Yeah, sorry, I'm trying to learn to play it, but before that i want to get it into working condition.

[fazool]

The "cut outs" you refer to is a compensation feature - it selectively changes the scale length of the strings to compensate for variations in the frequency physics. You can live without it but, if your guitar was designed/built expecting one, you may notice some intonation issues (slightly off-pitch notes).

If you are just beginning don't worry about it - you can change saddles in a few months and they are cheap anyway.


For cleaning the fretboard, I recommend scotchbrite pads - they are like steel wool but don't leave dusty residue.

[LeightonBankes]

Originally Posted by Drake06

Hey guys!
The saddle is cracked, so I want to replace it, I ordered this for starters, the size fits, no need to sand it, but the old one doesn't have those "cut outs" in them.

you will almost certainly have to sand it on the bottom. If it played good before, copy the broken one

[Truckjohn]

Before you go too far down the road of a "renovation" of an old guitar on your own....

What do you want your hobby to be?

If you are trying to learn guitar repair - then the road you are taking is a good one.

If you want to learn to play guitar - it is not a good path. The setup on a guitar is very precise. It requires precision of 0.005" / 0.1mm or less so that the instrument plays correctly. Unless you are a professional with tool and die experience - you won't be able to achieve this without a lot of expensive mistakes along the way.

Not to mention that the old guitar may well be a fine instrument.. But it may require extensive and costly work to get it going so that it plays right.

I would recommend looking at a beginner acoustic guitar in the $100 range such as a Yamaha, Mitchel, or Rogue. Budget another $50 for a professional setup. These are surprisingly good for the price.

Save the old guitar for when you have some budget for renovation and professional setup.

It's important to know what you want your hobby to be. If it's playing guitar - then spend your time playing and learning to play. Don't devote yourself to learning how to repair guitars - because you won't learn to play.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by Truckjohn

What do you want your hobby to be? ....

I would recommend looking at a beginner acoustic guitar in the $100 range such as a Yamaha, Mitchel, or Rogue. Budget another $50 for a professional setup.

Very good advice.

In addition, you may also be able to find a person to do the professional setup that will let you watch and show you what he or she is doing.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by fazool

The "cut outs" you refer to is a compensation feature - it selectively changes the scale length of the strings...

Sorry to nit-pick, but the general public is already confused enough...

The "scale length" is a theoretical string length that is used to calculate the position of the frets. Other than to change the fingerboard, or position of the frets, the scale length cannot be changed.

Compensation at the saddle changes the actual vibrating length of the strings, making the vibrating length longer than the theoretical scale length.

[fazool]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Sorry to nit-pick, but the general public is already confused enough...

The "scale length" is a theoretical string length that is used to calculate the position of the frets. Other than to change the fingerboard, or position of the frets, the scale length cannot be changed.

Compensation at the saddle changes the actual vibrating length of the strings, making the vibrating length longer than the theoretical scale length.

You are correct. I should have been more accurate with my words.

[Sperry]

Mildly soapy blazing hot water and a soft square of old tee-shirt is what I use to clean a fretboard. Soak the rag, wring it out as much as humanly possible, and go at it vigorously parallel to the frets. Rinse and wring often.

There is usually some crud at/under the fret edges you have to pick/scrape out. That's when I go to my next most abrasive, like the Scotchbrite Fazool uses.

To dress the fingerboard, boiled linseed oil or mineral oil. I dab it on with a Q-Tip. Allow it to soak in, wipe off the excess, and the next day rub the snot out of it. Burnish it good and hard with a clean soft towel.