could this be done?

[LeightonBankes]

BOOM

here's how much I moved it, I managed to cut it off the neck block with the exacto

that wound in the pocket for the neck extension happened because when bits get hot, they get loose and drop out of the dremel's collet (live and learn, needs more glue/sawdust)

[LeightonBankes]

I'll tell you, my enthusiasm for this build has been reinvigorated! I spent the morning xacto knifing and sanding glue off. I now have the side re-attached to the neck block and drying. I made it happen. I'm ultra pleased with myself right now.
I appreciate you guys entertaining my cockamamie ideas. I know everybody has their own threshold of what is acceptable to them. My threshold is pretty low. When you put about 100+ hours and several hundred dollars into something, a few hours to spruce it up is nothing to me. I might be going after the rosette next. It could be better. I'm afraid I couldn't improve it, but I said the same thing yesterday about the side.
It's still not real symmetrical, but to my eye it is 1000% better. Now you have to look hard to tell

[CaffeinatedOne]

Originally Posted by LeightonBankes

I'll tell you, my enthusiasm for this build has been reinvigorated! I spent the morning xacto knifing and sanding glue off. I now have the side re-attached to the neck block and drying. I made it happen. I'm ultra pleased with myself right now.

Wow! I'm impressed. That would have intimidated the dickens out of me.

[LeightonBankes]

ok, done!



you can see it dips in a tad there where I redid it, probably 1/16" , but I'd call it way better

[charles Tauber]

Just for general discussion...

Every guitar body shape is characterized by the position of 5 points. These are:

1. the position of the heel/where the neck joins
2. the position of the maximum width of the upper bout
3. the position of the maximum width of the waist
4. the position of the maximum width of the lower bout
5. the position of the butt end at the end block.

If these 5 points are connected by a smooth curve, moving these points in and out and up and down (closer to or further away from the neck and end block locations), will give you every guitar shape, less cutaway.

Your initial design has a large difference between the width of the waist and the widths of the upper and lower bouts. Couple that with pushing the maximum width of the upper bout upwards, towards the heel, and moving the maximum width of the lower bout down, towards the end block, gives you the very rounded waist. Your change to the contour was mostly to lower the vertical position of the maximum width of the upper bout, bringing it closer to the waist. Doing so, also changes the curvature leading into the waist.

If you were to lower a little further the vertical position of the maximum width of the upper bout, and make the waist slightly less deep, you'd have the basic shape of a classical guitar. If you raised the vertical position, while also bringing the waist out, you'd have a dreadnaught. At least from the waist up.

[LeightonBankes]

yea, it is unfortunate, the side of the upper bout I changed was right (for an sj), but I couldn't very well put wood back on the other side, so I did the only thing I could. It's lost the classic sj shape, but...what-do-ya-do......

[Quickstep192]

"It's still not real symmetrical, but to my eye it is 1000% better. Now you have to look hard to tell"

I didn't notice the asymmetry until you pointed it out. Now that you have and you've changed it, I can see the improvement. I applaud your fearlessness and perseverance! I'm sure you've learned an awful lot along the way. I can't wait for the next installment!

[Truckjohn]

Wow. You did a nice job on that.

Keep hammering away. You will be done before you know it.

[LeightonBankes]

thanks guys! About to go pick up my 3rd replacement bandsaw. They are junk (9" 2.5 amp skil) probabl ok for a woman's crafting projects. They sure don't like 3-4" of oak though, or maple. It'll cut it though...at about 1 inch per minute!