buffing

wblock77 · #1 07-22-2022, 10:33 AM

I'm sure this has been covered exhaustively but I can't find what I am looking for. I am refinishing the back of a guitar and I'm definitely an amateur. I've decided to do this as getting it professionally repaired was not cost effective (put me into the range of being able to buy one undamaged). It's been fun and I've gathered an education by scouring the posts here (Thanks) and watching lots of videos. Now to my question. I'm just getting into the wet sanding stage and looking ahead to the buffing stage. I ordered polishing compounds from Stewmac and got Medium, Fine and Swirl Remover. Somehow, I was expecting Course, Med and Fine. I'm thinking I'll just do the Med and Fine. Should I follow with an iteration of Swirl Remover? So far, I'm happy with my results. It won't be perfect but definitely worth the effort. I'll post some before and after pics when I'm done.

runamuck · #2 07-22-2022, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblock77

I'm sure this has been covered exhaustively but I can't find what I am looking for. I am refinishing the back of a guitar and I'm definitely an amateur. I've decided to do this as getting it professionally repaired was not cost effective (put me into the range of being able to buy one undamaged). It's been fun and I've gathered an education by scouring the posts here (Thanks) and watching lots of videos. Now to my question. I'm just getting into the wet sanding stage and looking ahead to the buffing stage. I ordered polishing compounds from Stewmac and got Medium, Fine and Swirl Remover. Somehow, I was expecting Course, Med and Fine. I'm thinking I'll just do the Med and Fine. Should I follow with an iteration of Swirl Remover? So far, I'm happy with my results. It won't be perfect but definitely worth the effort. I'll post some before and after pics when I'm done.

Yes, use the swirl remover unless you want the look of the swirls that result from stopping at fine.

wblock77 · #3 07-22-2022, 12:12 PM

Thanks for the reply. For some reason this was not intuitively obvious to me. OK, last question. Do you need to polish with a wax after using these buffing compounds?

Fathand · #4 07-22-2022, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblock77

Thanks for the reply. For some reason this was not intuitively obvious to me. OK, last question. Do you need to polish with a wax after using these buffing compounds?

Not usually but you can if you're not quite happy after swirl remover

wblock77 · #5 07-22-2022, 03:26 PM

Thanks for the reply. As my experience in this is minimal, I'm taking a follow the recipe approach. As you know, this is kind of a lot of work and mis-steps can set you pretty far back. Covid a few weeks ago is still zapping my energy level. Plus, I'm lazy so I'm trying to not make mistakes to learn from.

runamuck · #6 07-22-2022, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblock77

Thanks for the reply. For some reason this was not intuitively obvious to me. OK, last question. Do you need to polish with a wax after using these buffing compounds?

Wax won't be of any use.

H165 · #7 07-22-2022, 04:57 PM

Quote:

I'm thinking I'll just do the Med and Fine. Should I follow with an iteration of Swirl Remover? So far, I'm happy with my results. It won't be perfect but definitely worth the effort. I'll post some before and after pics when I'm done.

If your block and preliminary sanding is done (wet - 600, 800, 1200, 2000) and you are using 2500 for your final, then the medium will be enough, perhaps even too abrasive. I use the very fine grits (like "cleaner wax" and "swirl remover") in line with the grain.

As for wax, some people use it as a sort of "final cleaner" after the preliminary cleanup is complete. Wax can gather up stray white polish particles and help imbed them in the polishing cloth. Wax will also provide a certain amount of protection from moisture if you have any hairline flaws. I sometimes use ordinary carnauba wax like Gliptone Carnauba, Johnson Paste, etc. Be careful where you use wax, it can sometimes cause drag on the back of neck, among other things.

Bruce Sexauer · #8 07-22-2022, 05:37 PM

In the violin/bass world wax is avoided as it changes the sound of the instrument in a negative way. I NEVER use it on my instruments. That said, I believe wax is the medium for the Menzerna polishing compounds I use with my pedestal buffer. After sanding with #2000 wet, I use two "grits", the Brown and then the Cream, which leaves me with a patina that makes my customers smile, so far.

wblock77 · #9 07-22-2022, 06:30 PM

Thanks for the additional comments as they are most helpful. I just finished my 1200 grit wet sand (2 more coats tonight) and was planning to do 2000 tomorrow night (2 more coats tomorrow night). I was thinking I would wait a couple weeks and use 3000 and then 5000 for the final sands (no more coats). I think I may go directly to the Fine compound as I am more worried about burning thru the lacquer than having a stellar shine. I haven't developed the touch yet like you guys have. Please let me know if you see a flaw in my thinking.

Fathand · #10 07-22-2022, 09:24 PM

Are you using Nitro as finish? I think 2000 between coats is overkill, the coats meld into each other anyway

To prevent burn through you need a slow rpm buffer. I used to have problems using my 3450 rpm buffer I used to use polishing aluminum. I went to a 8 " wheel on a 1725 rpm motor and it was ok if I was careful. Now I use a 1/4 hp 1725 rpm motor with a loose belt on a Shop Fox buffer stepped down to half that by 1 to 2 pulley ratio with a 12" wheel. If I push too hard the belt slips so it doesn't get too hot.

mirwa · #11 07-22-2022, 10:12 PM

I have a step by step tutorial I can PM you that takes this to this

wblock77 · #12 07-22-2022, 11:22 PM

Yes, nitrocellulose. I was planning on using 6" pad for drills and use my variable. Fingers crossed. If I find another project guitar, I may spring for one of the stand types they sell on Stewmac. Kind of pricey though.

Mirwa - thanks for the offer. I have been watching anything I can get my hands on to learn more. I would welcome it. Mostly I have been following the steps outlined from a guy (Driftwood Guitars) that made videos for Stewmac on YouTube. I've watched several others but find this luthier stuff very interesting. Saw your guitar list. I used to have a 1956 Gretsch 6120 for many years but traded even-up for a new Resonator to a guy that is a luthier for Goldtone. It was the prototype for their current model and built with special care. What a dum dum I am, eh? I also have their prototype Weissenborn that they sell now too. Mine is better though. They cut back costs a bit when they went to production. The owner said I coud buy them but left me on the hook to borrow them back if he needed them.

Fathand · #13 07-23-2022, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblock77

If I find another project guitar, I may spring for one of the stand types they sell on Stewmac. Kind of pricey though.
.

This is the buffer I have, identical to the old Stew Mac one but a lot less $ if you can find one in stock. https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-W168.../dp/B005W1C8GG
Also lots of instructions online on building your own.

wblock77 · #14 07-23-2022, 07:32 AM

I sent this guy a message to see if he still has it. I'd expect I would need to modify with a stepdown belt/pulley arrangement. I have a bench grinder in my garage (also 3450) that I could modify but I like the stand that comes with this to bolt down.

https://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/d...510048286.html

Fathand · #15 07-23-2022, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblock77

I sent this guy a message to see if he still has it. I'd expect I would need to modify with a stepdown belt/pulley arrangement. I have a bench grinder in my garage (also 3450) that I could modify but I like the stand that comes with this to bolt down.

https://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/d...510048286.html

3450 rpm buffers are for polishing metal IMHO. You will melt through nitro, I did when I tried it. I wound up buffing my first project, a mandolin, with an arbor on an old washing machine motor.