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  #1  
Old 03-31-2021, 06:49 AM
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Victory Pete Victory Pete is offline
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Default Bridge Installation

I have new straightedges and a new method of determining bridge geometry.
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Old 03-31-2021, 06:52 AM
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I have numbered drill bits that use as a gauge to find the exact dimension for the space from E string pin holes to straightedge.
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Old 03-31-2021, 06:55 AM
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I like to use gauges instead of trying to interpret a ruler
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:05 AM
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I am obsessed with precision lately. This is not bad. I also build model airplanes where precision geometry is important also.
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:16 AM
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There's some real nice looking guitars on this web site: https://victoryguitarshop.com/

I guess that's you?

-Mike
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:23 AM
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I have noticed my Rosewood bridges are higher than my Ebony ones. The straightedge is just clearing it. This neck angle ended up a little less than my target of .0425 above soundboard. It seems my neck had arced back a bit while I was doing the neck set. I should have checked it periodically.
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hubcapsc View Post
There's some real nice looking guitars on this web site: https://victoryguitarshop.com/

I guess that's you?

-Mike
Yes that is me, thanks for your encouragement.
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:57 AM
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There are all kinds of ways of getting the bridge placement right. What I found that works for me is to use the center line to place the bridge left and right then I pull a piece of kite string tight from the e-string nut slot to the e-string pin hole on the bridge and observe where it lies over the fretboard. Then I do the same with the E-string and compare back and forth till it's right. All done by eye, quick and easy.
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Old 03-31-2021, 08:31 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redir View Post
There are all kinds of ways of getting the bridge placement right. What I found that works for me is to use the center line to place the bridge left and right then I pull a piece of kite string tight from the e-string nut slot to the e-string pin hole on the bridge and observe where it lies over the fretboard. Then I do the same with the E-string and compare back and forth till it's right. All done by eye, quick and easy.
Same, typically my bridges dont have saddle slots either, so the saddle slot can be tweaked and intonated correctly

Steve
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Old 03-31-2021, 10:14 AM
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Time to drill the holes.
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  #11  
Old 03-31-2021, 11:43 AM
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Dry run clamping. I made this clamping caul, it has evolved over the years to be used with 2 toggle bolts. I make sure it fits any new bridges I am using by attaching 80 grit to the bridge and doing some sanding. This bridge is Madagascar Rosewood.
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2021, 05:31 AM
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Bridge is glued down, time to work on the nut.
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2021, 08:51 AM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
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Default A thought

Pete: Wing nuts and fender washers instead of toggle bolts? Meanwhile, I love it! Simple, secure, accurate, and functional.
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2021, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phavriluk View Post
Pete: Wing nuts and fender washers instead of toggle bolts? Meanwhile, I love it! Simple, secure, accurate, and functional.
Sure, that would work, I tend to improvise and use what I have on hand. I have no wing nuts around but loads of toggles being a semi retired Electrician.
Check out this place https://www.essentracomponents.com/e...tra%20%5BEM%5D
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2021, 10:59 AM
Glen H Glen H is offline
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Is that a satin finish or do you glue down prior to finishing?
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