Sitka - Cocobolo OM

[Gimar Yestra]

Hello everyone,

I just started this build and im hoping to finishing this guitar within the next 2 months. This will be my 2nd steelstring guitar.

Im not completely sure about some details yet, bindings, and headstock design are still unknown. I'd like to do a slotted headstock, wich I've never done before.

Suggestions etc. are very welcome!!









Cheers, Gimar

[Howard Klepper]

You have good looking wood, and so far your work looks good, too.

[Gimar Yestra]

Finished inlaying the rosette today.

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[CET]

Gimar - thanks for sharing the photos of your build. I love the rosette!

I like your web site too.

Cheers

[Luca Canteri]

nice work and woods. thanks for sharing!

[Gimar Yestra]

Thnx Guys,

I finished shaping the braces, im still wondering if I should add some re-enforcement bars around the soundhole, not sure if there is a purpose to do this (or not to).

Bridge plate is Honduras Rosewood, bracing itself is made of European Spruce

[Gimar Yestra]

Is anyone familiar with the V headstock joint?? NOT the martin style birds beek joint but actual V (like on some 17th century guitars). Id love to do that joint, but I have some doubts about it being strong enough for steelstring guitars, since it's mostly endgrain on the glue end.

I faked that joint on my 1st steelstring guitar (see pic), and I tought it would be cool to do a proper one.



Im also thinking of doing a similar headstock, but slotted, this afternoon i made a sketch and I think it looks interesting.

I also have the sides bend, but no picture, I'll post some pics once I have the linings and heel/neck block glued in.

[Gimar Yestra]

I got the top and back glued, so now its time to figure out what I want to do with bindings... I'm thinking of doing a mahogany binding with a black laminate, but not sure yet.
I also need to figure out a way to get the binding channel routed properly.

The lightning is pretty bad on the pictures, obviously I'm not a photographer

[Howard Klepper]

For a second guitar, you have a very good eye and clean workmanship. Your braces are gracefully shaped.

If I may make a few suggestions?: Add soundhole braces. That area of the top is prone to distortion--the guitar wants to fold up around the soundhole.

Most builders let the lower arms of the X into the liners. You can cut them down very low, but leave a little bit, like about 1mm. I also would keep the upper arms of the X taller.

Your braces are scalloped perhaps a bit too low. I'm assuming you do not intend to use medium gauge strings! If the guitar is thin in the trebles, I'd suggest that this may be the cause.

Congratulations on the good work.

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by Gimar Yestra

Is anyone familiar with the V headstock joint?? NOT the martin style birds beek joint but actual V (like on some 17th century guitars). Id love to do that joint, but I have some doubts about it being strong enough for steelstring guitars, since it's mostly endgrain on the glue end.

I faked that joint on my 1st steelstring guitar (see pic), and I tought it would be cool to do a proper one.

Im also thinking of doing a similar headstock, but slotted, this afternoon i made a sketch and I think it looks interesting.

Hans Brentrup (Haans on the AGF) does a headstock joint in the manner that I think you are referring to. I believe he's posted pictures of his process on this forum and at the OLF (Official Luthier's Forum). The pictures also show how he does his slotted headstock.

[Gimar Yestra]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

For a second guitar, you have a very good eye and clean workmanship. Your braces are gracefully shaped.

If I may make a few suggestions?: Add soundhole braces. That area of the top is prone to distortion--the guitar wants to fold up around the soundhole.

Most builders let the lower arms of the X into the liners. You can cut them down very low, but leave a little bit, like about 1mm. I also would keep the upper arms of the X taller.

Your braces are scalloped perhaps a bit too low. I'm assuming you do not intend to use medium gauge strings! If the guitar is thin in the trebles, I'd suggest that this may be the cause.

Congratulations on the good work.

Thank for the reply Howard.
I actually did add soundhole braces after making these pictures. I usually work and totally forget about taking pictures.

Is there a specific reason to run the lower arms of the X brace into the lining?? maybe also to prevent top distortion?

I got a bit exited on the upper X brace arms.

I build my 1st acoustic very lightly, pretty big scoop on the braces (not so much on the upper x brace arms though), and It being my 2nd guitar, I just follow my guts, If it turns out bad its a lesson for guitar #3. In the end it's all experience I guess. I wish I could time-travel 5 years


As an apprentice for master luthier Sjak Zwier (the Netherlands) I only learned to build electrics, I did follow him building a acoustic guitar, and a fellow apprentice build 1 or 2 acoustics, so thats pretty much al the reference I've got so far.


Thank you for your suggestions, I realy appreciate it, and I'll keep them in mind,

Gimar

[Gimar Yestra]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

Hans Brentrup (Haans on the AGF) does a headstock joint in the manner that I think you are referring to. I believe he's posted pictures of his process on this forum and at the OLF (Official Luthier's Forum). The pictures also show how he does his slotted headstock.

Thnx Chuck, I'll look it up!

[riorider]

Nice work, Gimar! No suggestions -- I'm just enjoying it come together!

Phil

[Gimar Yestra]

Thnx Phil.


I have a question, hoping someone might be able to answer.

I'd like to do a little laminate underneath the binding (where the binding meets the sides) no idea what its called

So im guessing you glue the laminate to the binding before bending?
Also, would regular titebond hold when bending, since its not waterproof, should I use waterproof glue instead?

[Luca Canteri]

multi black-white lines around guitar bindings are called purflings.
Personally I prefer to glue purflings before the bindings, as high temperature from bending operations could cause previously glued purfling/binding to separate, not to mention a better control on gluing these parts. hope it helps.