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  #1  
Old 08-10-2005, 09:16 PM
s1m4m s1m4m is offline
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Default Beginner Dobro

What is a good deal for a beginner model dobro? Ive really had a motivation to learn it the last coupe of weeks. Any advice will be handy.
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2005, 11:52 PM
woodenkings woodenkings is offline
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i own a Regal Resonator [model# RD-35B below] which i really like to play - it's blue -also Epiphone makes real nice dobro's and resonators too. Tri-cone's are real heavy but are awesome. i did not like the Fender brand but they do cost about the same as the others and play well enough to learn on and purchase. their are so many out there like Rogue, Johnson and Galvestons that are inexpensive. although Galvestons will probably be found in a pawn shop?

have you been to any music stores and played any - if so what brands have you tried? watch for sales and check out pawn shops were many different brands pop up from time to time.

to name a few - the more expensive of course are Gibsons, Goldtones, Nationals, Epiphones and Regals which i believe are the more notables and older company's that have been in the business the longest.

good luck!
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:42 AM
Freeman Freeman is offline
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What kind of music do you want to play? Lap bluegrass "dobro" style - you want a spider bridge, wood bodied, probably square neck, heavy strings, with a high nut and a Shubb or Stevens steel (btw - I don't play that style). A true Dobro (tm) is probably your choice altho there are some others.

If you want to play fretted style in standard or altered tunings (think Blind Boy Fuller) look carefully at the neck profile. My type 33 Dobro has a 14 fret 1-11/16 neck and the same fingerboard radius as my Martins and Taylor - and it feels and plays the same. It is a little harder to play slide than...

If you primarily want to play bottleneck slide you have a lot of options - ranging from fairly inexpensive Rogues and Johnsons to Dobros and, the very best, Nationals. For bottleneck the ideal is a wider flatter fingerboard - 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 is common, and most are 12 fretters. The action may be a little higher and usually heavy strings are used as you will be tuned to open G or D - it will be a little harder to fret and the intonation may not be as good (you compensate for that with the slide). My old (1932) type 27 is a great bottleneck guitar and I paid $200 bucks for it from the original owner's daughter.

If you want to plug in, your choices get limited again. Getting the right sound from the cone thru a pickup is problematic, altho obviously it can be done. There are some reso-electrics on the market - I don't have any experience with them.

There has been a lot of discussion over at the Martin forum about inexpensive reso's - you might want to browse here a bit
UMGF Slide it on over

We could spend a lot of time talking about different construction methods - spider vs biscuit bridge, metal bodies vs wood, single cone vs. tri. The National site has some great sound clips of Bob Brozman and others playing various models - it would give you a chance to hear the difference (which will more or less apply to less expensive guitars). Many owners of less expensive guitars find the upgrade to a Quarterman or National cone improves their guitars significantly (I have Quarterman's in both of mine). A common problem with resonators is rattles and buzzes - spiders, coverplated, tail pieces can all contribute to this.

What I'm saying is that you have a lot of great choices, but if you don't carefully think about it you could end up with a guitar that doesn't do what you want. Some day I will sell my type 33 because it is not as good for bottleneck and that is primarily what I play.
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  #4  
Old 08-11-2005, 11:52 AM
cc407 cc407 is offline
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First, know if you want a squareneck (lap style - think bluegrass) played with a steel bar. The strings are WAY HIGH over the fretboard to allow this type of playing, you would not play this ;like a guitar.

or a roundneck ( slide with a "bottleneck" type over-the finger slide, mixing chords and note runs with slides)

My first reso was a roundneck Fender and it was pretty good, but I learned I wanted squareneck. You can put a (cheap) nut extender on a roundneck for playing lap style, and it works fine, though a squareneck is more stable and works better.

I sold the Fender (miss it, it was pretty cool) and got a Regal. I recomend the RD45, just a little better than the 35. They are nice guitars, and can be upgraded if you get past beginner. (Most reso's down to the cheapest can be upgraded, better cones, nuts, and bridges, but don't worry about that now. The Fender or Regal will work fine and be a good test for your desire. I've heard the Galvestons and Johnsons are about the same.)

I thought I found a better idea, but would not recommend what I got next, which is a Liberty. They give a "made in USA" impression, but are really imports that the shop adds a little sheet metal to. Some are already upgraded with a better cone, but I believe you can spend your money better.

There are some on-line dealers offering upgraded Regals, but it costs a bit more, and I would bypass them and go a little higher if you feel that need.

If you think your tastes may require you to spend more, read on:

It was a couple years after getting rid of the Liberty that I really got the bug again. Currently starting over with a Gold Tone Beard Signature Standard, which is an import built to spec for Paul Beard. (The laminated mahog version is what I have, and there's a laminated flamed maple with fancier fret markers for a bit more money. Might be coming out with a solid mahog Gold Tone Beard soon, but that will cost more.) He then puts in his own Beard cone, bone nut, ebony topped maple bridge, and strings. Cost is just a hair more than a dealer hot-rodded Regal. Oh, and regal has their own hot-rodded squareneck, the RD-52 "Black Lightning". Looks cool and has the mods people want.

There is a similar offering from Scheerhorn, using a guitar made by Wechter. They cost more than the Gold Tone Beard's.

There is a discussion on this link about the differences between the Wechter/Scheerhorns and the Gold Tone/Beards here:
http://www.jerrydouglas.com/bb_threa...12&messages=67
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2005, 03:49 PM
Freeman Freeman is offline
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s1m4m

Just one final bit of advice - if you find a reso you are interested in while shopping around do not hesitate to tune it however you plan to play it (down, not up) and if fitting, take out a slide (or borrow one from the salesperson), put on your finger picks and really test drive it. It pleases me to pick up a reso in a store and find it tuned to G or D - that tells me something about the last person to play it.

be warned, however, the store people may send you to a sound proof room while you are testing - these things can be really LOUD!

also, be warned that they are addictive
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