#1
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Buffing out a minor ding...
I have a 2011 Taylor 814ce that I recently sent to Taylor to fix some bubbling in the finish on the back of the guitar (covered under the warranty). While they had it I asked them to repair a very minor ding on the top. They told me it would cost $150 to buff it out, so I told them not to bother. Much to my surprise, when I got my guitar back, not only did they do a fantastic job on the back, but they also rubbed out the ding on the top. You would NEVER know there was a ding and the guitar is completely like new except for the normal fading and improvement in tone. Kudos to Taylor! Thank you!!!
Now I just purchased a used Taylor 356ce 12 string. The guitar and case are both in new condition - almost pristine. I was really lucky to get such a gem. I did notice, however, a very small ding on the top. It's on the edge and not very noticable, but I am curious to understand how Taylor rubbed the ding out of my 814 (which was a little more noticable). Is it buffed with compound and then polished? It's really not that important to me because the ding is so small, but I am curious how they do it. I rubbed it with Guitar Finish Restore Plus (a great product, BTW), and that seemed to minimize the ding. Thoughts? (other than "if it's so small, then why bother?" I already know that.) Thanks!
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1980 Guild D50 (Westerly), Antique Sunburst 2010 Epiphone Masterbilt AJ500RE 2010 Taylor GS Mini 2011 Taylor 814ce 2015 Taylor 356ce (12 string) 1975 Carlo Robelli SG Custom (Sam Ash model) Fishman Loudbox Mini VOX AGA70 |
#2
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Dings can’t be rubbed or buffed out. They must be filled, usually with CA, scraped level, sanded and buffed. Sometimes they can be steamed out.
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#3
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I've had success with steam, but I understand that the procedure works best with a fresh ding. The longer it sits, the less likely it is to expand to its original dimensions.
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1 dreadnought, 1 auditorium, 1 concert, and 2 travel guitars. Last edited by bufflehead; 02-20-2019 at 06:20 PM. |
#4
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caution
I suggest OP take the guitar to a luthier and discuss the 'ding'. What can be done to remedy the problem depends on a professional inspection. I think no one knows what can be done without the problem in hand.
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#5
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^^^^^^^^^
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#6
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Quote:
https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Dent-from-Wood |
#7
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Personally, I would do anything with it unless you really know what you are doing. You could be opening up a can of worms. Believe me, I'm talking from experience.
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Larrivee OM-03 Seagull SWS Maritime Mini Jumbo Alvarez AP70SB Parlor Alvarez AF60SHB Seagull Concert Hall Mahogany Harmony H1215. 1953 An 80 year old Kay (approx) Epiphone ES-339 Epiphone Les Paul 50's Standard 3 home built Strat's |
#8
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If the ding is only in the finish, then, it can be invisibly repaired as with your 814ce. If the ding has damaged the grain, then, it has to be repaired as described by Tim in post #2. Applying steam as described by bufflehead in post #3 might also help although I've never heard of that method. Too much steam might damage the finish. Usually a ding that has damaged the grain cannot be completely-invisibly repaired.
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#9
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The ding is only in the finish and has not penetrated the grain. It' really so minor that it's not worth the cost or effort. It is hardly visible. I was only curious how these are removed and really don't have any intention of getting it repaired or attempting it myself. Steaming it does sound interesting though.
Thanks for all of the replies! Very interesting. Jim
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1980 Guild D50 (Westerly), Antique Sunburst 2010 Epiphone Masterbilt AJ500RE 2010 Taylor GS Mini 2011 Taylor 814ce 2015 Taylor 356ce (12 string) 1975 Carlo Robelli SG Custom (Sam Ash model) Fishman Loudbox Mini VOX AGA70 |
#10
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Just to be clear, steam is used to re-expand locally compressed wood (i.e. a "dent"). It is not used to repair finishes. If the fibers of the wood have been cut or severed, steaming isn't very effective. If the "dent" has cut or severed wood fibers, steaming it won't do very much.
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#11
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Quote:
Thanks for your reply!
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1980 Guild D50 (Westerly), Antique Sunburst 2010 Epiphone Masterbilt AJ500RE 2010 Taylor GS Mini 2011 Taylor 814ce 2015 Taylor 356ce (12 string) 1975 Carlo Robelli SG Custom (Sam Ash model) Fishman Loudbox Mini VOX AGA70 |
#12
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In answer to the original question, a buffer is used to buff out the ding. Finish is applied thick enough to remove some in the final sanding and buffing.
If the ding is shallow enough to remove it and the finish around it without going through the finish, then it can be buffed out.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#13
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Just think of buffing as very find sanding, to remove the scratch you need to “sand” the area down until it’s flat with surrrounding areas
Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#14
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Exactly! I have removed many dings from guitars by sanding the finish until the ding is gone and then buffing. In order for this to work, the ding cannot break or crack the finish and the finish has to be thick enough to allow enough sanding to remove the valley of the ding and gradually feather away from the ding so as not to create a visible void. Many Taylor guitars have quite thick finishes (.008+) and that allows such a repair without filling the ding.
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Joe White ( o)===::: |
#15
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A number of posts have mentioned "buffing" as the way to repair minor scratches and dings and I have even recommend that myself, sometimes, even though I've never done it. What type of buffer should be used? Can it be attached to an electric drill? What material is the buffing wheel made of? What stiffness should it be, etc.?
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