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Okay, for those of not familiar with his model in the 20's the Stella Company made a model 5024 painted black with decals of playing cards on the face AKA "The Gambler".
So This is my take on that guitar- I am not trying to make an exact copy unlike the original it will have an adjustable truss rod and a bolt on neck. The body is made from soft maple, the neck is poplar,Adi top ebony fretboard and bridge and pearloid (celluloid nitrate) bindings, head veneer and heel cap. I forgot to take pictures of the first few steps of joining the top and back-I use an 1899 12" jointer-sort of like killing a mouse with an elephant gun! ![]() Here I am gluing the back reinforcement in the go bar deck. ![]() The top braced,Hide glue. ![]() The "boat". Last edited by Brad Goodman; 10-27-2011 at 09:24 PM. |
#2
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Brad, I can't see the picture....
Chris. |
#3
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Hi Chris,
I know-I am still trying to figure it out-it worked last time. I'm glad I build guitars better then I work computers!! Please stand by while we fix our technical difficulties...... |
#4
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#5
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Now yer talkin'!
Is that the 15-3/4" box or the smaller? Spruce bridge patch? Gonna paint it black and put the decals on it? |
#6
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My box is 16" -3/16" X 2" spruce bridge patch. It is black with the card decals-Art work by Neil Harpe. |
#7
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![]() ![]() Gluing the top with go bars. ![]() Here I am truing up the top (note shim)in order to match the neck angle. Before I glue the top on I do the same thing to the sides (ala Jim Olson) ![]() A bunch of neck roughs. ![]() The head and neck surface after being trued on the jointer. ![]() Routing the truss rod slot on the router table. ![]() Drilling the dowel reinforcement to the heel. ![]() Here I am drilling the holes with a jig for the inserts for the bolts (ala Mario Proulx) ![]() Inserting the dowel. ![]() Gluing the Pearloid head veneer on. ![]() Pattern routing the head with the overarm router. Last edited by Brad Goodman; 10-29-2011 at 12:40 PM. |
#8
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![]() ![]() Here I am drilling the tuner holes with my trusty old doweling jig-works perfectly! ![]() Here is the jig I made to rout the slots. ![]() The almost finished head-still need to carve the ramps. ![]() Tapering the fretboard on the tablesaw (Ala Bob Bennedetto) ![]() Binding the fretboard. ![]() The finished fretboard. ![]() Carving the neck. ![]() The finished neck. |
#9
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I love this!
Great headstock and inlays - can't wait to see how it all turns out! |
#10
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Can I ask a stupid question? After putting on the fretboard binding, why would you take a chance on messing up the edges while finishing the neck; or is the binding protected with tape to allow you to finish the neck to the edges? This question came up in my mind because I'm a carpenter, not a Luthier. Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Jerry
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If there were no guitars, everyone would have to sing a Capella. Samick SW-21NM |
#11
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Hey, Mother of Toilet Seat! Always wanted to build one with a MOT F/B too!
![]() Looks good Brad, yer a fast worker! Must be young-err... |
#12
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The fact that two vintage Stella repro 12 string builds are at the top of the Custom Shop forum makes me feel all warm inside...I don't know why...but it does!
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#13
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Hey Damian, to top that, there are FOUR 12 string threads on page 1 and they are all VINTAGE instrument copies AND no drednaughts!
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#14
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Great work Brad! Looks like you've got some really cool tools in your shop.
I'd love to have one of those overarm routers! I'm enjoying your build. |
#15
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Jerry, There are no stupid questions (just stupid answers!). The way I build necks the angle (round area) actually is part of the binding-otherwise the neck can feel "square" at the edge so in other words the neck actually blends into the binding. Last edited by Brad Goodman; 11-01-2011 at 06:13 AM. |