Through the Seasons - truss rod changes with a newly built guitar

[srick]

I’m curious as to others experiences and I am am aware that YMMV.

Dale Fairbanks delivered by F35 Fox on December 26th of 2021. I love the guitar, but have never experienced a guitar that seemed to change with the seasons like this one has. Truss rod adjustments take care of most of the issue, but I could make the argument for a winter saddle and a summer saddle - I know that is a very traditional solution to seasonal changes in action.

I humidify in the case, but the house has central air without humidification.

So a couple of questions: do you think that this will settle down over several years? And is this common with all lightly built guitars?

OTOH, this does let me know that the guitar is very much alive and not a static piece of wood!

Many thanks in advance.

Rick

[Guitars44me]

You don’t mention the Relative Humidity in your home…. And how are you humidifying in the case? And does the axe live in the case? Do you gig it?

Lightly built instrument, for sure. The build thread was fun!

As for reaching the 10,000 hours, play till your fingers begin to hurt, then stop till they feel fine, then repeat! You will get there faster than you expect

Cheers

Paul

[justonwo]

Are you saying the relief is changing? Or the action? Or both?

[Kenny B]

One of the smartest move I've made in the past year was to learn how to check my guitar for intonation, neck relief, and action at the 12th fret. Had to invest in a couple of tools like those feeler gauges,

https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-...96678030&psc=1

And a FretGuru Action Gauge, like this one:

https://fretguru.com/shop/p/string-a...e-guitar-ruler

And more recently a disc sander that allows me to safely adjust bridge saddles.


https://www.menards.com/main/tools/p...4359158&ipos=3

And then the research and practice on how check the action as there are many Youtube videos on how to do this properly. I started checking my guitars and then documenting the numbers in a spreadsheet (same one I use to document string changes).

Now I'm able to adjust neck relief, lower the bridge saddle if necessary etc. etc.

I got tired of taking a guitar in for a setup, spending $60 to $100, waiting 2 weeks, driving 2 - 3 hours (twice); etc. etc. Much easier to do these things myself. Not to say that I would never take a guitar in for a setup, but just that the minor things, I am able to figure out myself before spending the time and money for a pro setup.

So far I haven't wrecked anything yet and my guitars are playing better than ever! ;-)

[TennesseeWalker]

^^^ yes, this would be good to know please ^^^

[srick]

Originally Posted by Guitars44me

You don’t mention the Relative Humidity in your home…. And how are you humidifying in the case? And does the axe live in the case? Do you gig it?

Hi Paul - humidifying in the case and when the heat comes on for the season, it stays in the case )except when being played of course). Humidity right now is in the 35% range. During the summer months, I will leave it out for a day or two, but if I’m not playing it, back in the case. Do I gig it? Hah! I’m obsessing over a little scratch I gave it the other night! Should have ordered it relic’ed.

Originally Posted by Guitars44me

Lightly built instrument, for sure. The build thread was fun!
As for reaching the 10,000 hours, play till your fingers begin to hurt, then stop till they feel fine, then repeat! You will get there faster than you expect

Thank you. Commissioning my first build was one of the neatest things that I could ever imagine. The two of us are growing together. I’ve improved my technique and I think part of that has to do with a guitar that provides incredible auditory feedback. And as I say, I have gotten to know this guitar and can feel it changing. I suspect that after this winter season, it will settle down.

[srick]

Originally Posted by justonwo

Are you saying the relief is changing? Or the action? Or both?

Juston - just the relief. This neck is very finicky. But a couple of tweaks of the truss rod seem to cure it. I’ve never had a guitar that was this sensitive to temperature\humidity changes. On the other hand, it is a very light build. As mentioned, it will be interested to see how it settles in over this season.

[srick]

Originally Posted by Kenny B

One of the smartest move I've made in the past year was to learn how to check my guitar for intonation, neck relief, and action at the 12th fret. Had to invest in a couple of tools like those feeler gauges,
………………..
So far I haven't wrecked anything yet and my guitars are playing better than ever! ;-)

I couldn’t agree more. The trick is recognizing your limitations! In retirement I’m having a blast rehabbing old guitars.

[justonwo]

Originally Posted by srick

Juston - just the relief. This neck is very finicky. But a couple of tweaks of the truss rod seem to cure it. I’ve never had a guitar that was this sensitive to temperature\humidity changes. On the other hand, it is a very light build. As mentioned, it will be interested to see how it settles in over this season.

And are you seeing the relief constantly increase so that you have to tighten the truss rod? Or are you seeing the relief increase and decrease? If the former, yes I have observed this on some guitars. It has nothing to do with how lightly built the guitar is; you want the neck to be stiff. Just seems like some guitars need truss rod tightening for a few years until they settle in. And some don’t need much. But I don’t get the seasonal effect here in the Bay Area. My relief never decreases on guitars. It either stays the same or increases.

[srick]

Originally Posted by justonwo

And are you seeing the relief constantly increase so that you have to tighten the truss rod? Or are you seeing the relief increase and decrease? If the former, yes I have observed this on some guitars. It has nothing to do with how lightly built the guitar is; you want the neck to be stiff. Just seems like some guitars need truss rod tightening for a few years until they settle in. And some don’t need much. But I don’t get the seasonal effect here in the Bay Area. My relief never increases on guitars. It either stays the same or increases.

I keep having to go back and forth on the relief. This week, I had to give it more relief. I believe about six weeks ago, it needed to be straightened a bit. During the year it’s happened about three times. Different string tensions may have been a contributing factor, but now I have pretty much settled on EJ16s which are about a 160 lb set. I have also used SCGC lights and mediums and Thomastik Infeld plectrums (which sound incredible, but they are thick and a little heavier tension than most).

PS - Dale uses dual action truss rods and I find they are very sensitive. I have to always nudge myself to remember that when adjusting it.

[phil1]

Rick, in my experience with the guitars I build, the changes you are describing come with the territory of a guitar that's more lightly built. A winter and summer saddle are a great solution, or a thin shim to insert underneath the saddle in winter. Where I live, that's when our RH dives, as does the guitar top.

You're hunch about these changes becoming less notable with time is also correct, in my experience. But in the first few years, make the needed adjustments so you can fully enjoy your new instrument year round.

[Bruce Sexauer]

Once the relief is correct (on my guitars) it should stay that way close to forever. I use a single action rod because it is NOT finicky. It is possible to over-adjust and cause relief to keep changing over time. It usually is better to make smaller changes a couple of times than to shoot in the dark. Once the truss rod nut is seated and there is no slack, 1/12th turn (half a flat) should get meaningful results (using my system).

The truss rod is a terrible way to adjust action for seasonal changes in bridge height. Many people do it but it is wrong, and often results in guitars that look like they’re set up right at first glance, but do not play well. The correct fix is to adjust the saddle height. Of course first the nut slots and the relief are addressed, if necessary, but once they are dialed they should remain stable.

[TennesseeWalker]

Originally Posted by srick

. Different string tensions may have been a contributing factor, but now I have pretty much settled on EJ16s which are about a 160 lb set. I have also used it.

When switching from lights to mediums or vice versa, it’s wise to check neck relief as the tension on the neck changes a good deal.
Once one settles in a specific type/weight set, it is my understanding and experience that relief should change very little to not at all.

I’ve one guitar that’s a little finicky with string tension changes and another that could care less -
I’ve been taught to make a minor change, give it a day or two, recheck and adjust as necessary -
little at a time with adjustments separated by days allowing the neck to reshape itself and settle in.

[RussellHawaii]

I have one custom guitar that required 4 or 5 truss rod adjustments over its first 2-3 years. Now it seems stable and has not needed any more, for the last couple years.
In my case it was not seasonal, always going in the same direction ( tightening the rod to reduce relief). Some other new guitars have needed one or two tweaks. Good luck srick!

[srick]

I'm happy to report that the guitar has nicely settled down over the last week. And in that time, the humidity in the house has dropped from 45% to 35%. The guitar is spending most of its time in its humidified case until the springtime comes around again.

I suspect that the wood simply needed time to understand its new reality: it is now a guitar and no longer a tree.

Rick