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  #1  
Old 05-04-2011, 01:41 PM
gitnoob gitnoob is offline
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Default Open Heart Surgery

My old parlor needs a neck reset, so I'm going to attempt to slip the neck block.

It also needs a few other repairs, so the back is now off.



Ladder braced, but fairly nice quality. Would you rebrace while you had it opened up? If so, how would you brace it?
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Old 05-04-2011, 02:01 PM
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If the braces are solid, I leave them alone. If they come off at the touch, I'll opt for some X-brace pattern.
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Old 05-04-2011, 02:17 PM
gitnoob gitnoob is offline
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Steve, I listened to a recording of one of your rebraced (or was it re-topped?) parlors. Fantastic! How can you resist revoicing them all?
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:23 PM
arie arie is offline
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just curious - why did you opt to slip the neck block vs. steaming the neck off?
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:53 PM
gitnoob gitnoob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arie View Post
just curious - why did you opt to slip the neck block vs. steaming the neck off?
My reasoning went something like this:
  • The back was already separating from the sides.
  • There's no binding.
  • the need for a neck reset is due to body deformation, so why not try to correct the deformation directly rather than a neck-reset work-around.
  • Neck resets are messy, and I don't like the idea of steaming wood.

So it seemed like removing the back, correcting the deformation, and then rejoining the back would be a reasonable thing to do.

While I'm in there, it also seems reasonable to try to improve the strength to better resist future deformation.
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitnoob View Post
My reasoning went something like this:
  • The back was already separating from the sides.
  • There's no binding.
  • the need for a neck reset is due to body deformation, so why not try to correct the deformation directly rather than a neck-reset work-around.
  • Neck resets are messy, and I don't like the idea of steaming wood.

So it seemed like removing the back, correcting the deformation, and then rejoining the back would be a reasonable thing to do.

While I'm in there, it also seems reasonable to try to improve the strength to better resist future deformation.
I support this approach as well. Necksets are not always the way to go.
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:52 AM
arie arie is offline
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ok. what brand of guitar is this anyway?
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:26 PM
gitnoob gitnoob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arie View Post
ok. what brand of guitar is this anyway?
It's a 1920's Weymann. No idea who made it, though (Weymann relabeled other makes, including Martin). Nice mahogany neck -- almost Martin-nice. Chicago-style bridge, but it doesn't look like most of the Chicago makes I've seen before.

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Old 05-09-2011, 01:01 PM
arie arie is offline
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Cool. Looks neat. H.A. Weymann & Sons used to make banjos back in the day (Regal, Vega). Later on Harmony pumped out archtops under the Weymann name. That bridge looks faintly Larsonesque with its flattened pyramids.

maybe it'll come out like this:



let us know how the repairs go
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  #10  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:13 AM
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Default c.1922 Keystone State - WEYMANN GUITAR

https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/home/Weymann
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:26 AM
arie arie is offline
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https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/home/Weymann


huh? what do you want us to sign up for here?
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:34 AM
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I have 2 Weymann Guitars, this is a restored c.1922 Style 630, mahogany back and sides.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:36 AM
mathura mathura is offline
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Sorry Arie, I'm new and was trying to work out how to post a pic. Is that fancy Weymann your guitar?
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:47 AM
mathura mathura is offline
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And a c.1910 Faux rosewood back and sides on maple I think. This guitar was found in this condition, however their is a very large split in the side almost running right around the body. No serial number but certainly Weymann made.
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:49 AM
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Back of the c.1910 Headstock
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