#1
|
|||
|
|||
Yamaha FG830 vs. Recording King G6 Dreadnought
Hello, everyone. I recently acquired a used FG830 which I really like, but there's a bit of string buzz on the D string 2nd fret, and I'd love to replace the plastic saddle and nut with bone or Tusq. A quote from the most trusted shop here in Minneapolis for that work is about $200.
Alternatively, I could look at selling that guitar and buying a Recording King G6 dreadnought, which looks to be a good solid-top and I wouldn't have to replace the nut and saddle. Any thoughts on how the two compare? Last edited by bfm612; 07-30-2020 at 07:46 AM. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I can't compare the 2 guitars as I haven't played either.
I just want to chime in that $200 seems awfully pricey for a nut swap. I just had my #2 Les Paul nut swapped out and all in it cost $40 Canadian. Good luck with whatever you decide!
__________________
"Schutzhund, because perp's aren't just for breakfast anymore" |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
The new nut is the biggest expense of that work, and has the least positive impact. I would just ask for a set up: adjust truss rod, adjust action by filing or shimming the saddle (or keep the original saddle intact and have a tusq or bone saddle installed) and filing nut slots if needed.
You can hope a different guitar will need no attention like the above, but chances are it will. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Comparing the two guitars is a little difficult in that while both have solid spruce tops, the Yamaha has laminated rosewood back and sides while the RK has laminated mahogany ... so there would be a bit of a sonic difference right there I should think.
Others can chip in here with their costs on replacing a nut and saddle. In my area a local luthier who makes his own acoustics will charge me something like a maximum of $80 and probably less for a nut and saddle change. Although I do recommend in general replacing a plastic saddle with a bone one, I don't know if you need that as that buzz could be due to some other problem I think if it is only in one spot. It could be a high fret or it could be the guitar neck needs a little adjusting. When I got my Alvarez AJ80 from an online retailer just about everything on the second fret buzzed. All it needed was a slight neck tweak. Btw, I have played the Yamaha but I haven't played the RK. I did, however, play the next model up in the RK line that had all solid woods and I was very disappointed in the sound. But that's just me and YMMV of course.
__________________
Martin X1-DE Epiphone AJ500MNS Alvarez AD30 Alvarez AD710 Alvarez RD20S Esteban American Legacy Rogue mandolin |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
That $200 quote did sound like a ridiculous amount, but I'm glad I'm checking with this group. The store is really reputable here locally, so I was taken aback by it.
Thanks for the feedback so far, everyone. I'll see what everyone else has to say, but this so far has been useful. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
A new bone bridge insert on Amazon.uk is £6-7. (And you get a free nut!).
If you're sure its simply a low bridge saddle why not DIY. Good fun. Or go for full set up as others have suggested but sounds a bit of an expense. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Maybe the Yamaha needed fretwork? You can easily get this model on CL for $200.
I have an FS-TA, and I really like it, even without the reverb.
__________________
Eastman E1SS-CLA-LTD Eastman E1OOSS-LTD Cordoba Fusion Orchestra CE Cordoba SM-CE Mini Classical Acoustic Ibanez Blazer 21 MIJ Stratocaster 2 Yamaha PSR-SX900 keyboards I play professionally Roland FP-90 digital piano I play for pleasure with piano VSTs. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, I think it might need fretwork. I like this Yamaha's sound and feel, and the reviews have been very positive from all sources. I'm not hearing much about the Recording King, but I thought I'd ask about it as Gryphon in Palo Alto carries it and I thought I'd consider it as an option.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I have a Yamaha LL16, so a little higher level of Yamaha and it also came with the same plastic (urea) nut and saddle. As someone else mentioned the nut makes very little tonal difference from this material to bone or tusq. I kept my nut and filed it, your shop could file the slots very quickly. I replaced the saddle with bone, I also have one in tusq, they're both really good and better than the urea. I ordered my bone saddle from Colosi, you could look into that. I prefer the bone the best but tusq is fantastic too. $200 is a lot, is a lot, i wonder if its because of the fret buzz if theres something more going on? Did they say why its buzzing? Might just need a fret level, anyway, check another shop, $200 is nuts.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
FG830. I just tried it out yesterday. Amazing guitar and look nice.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Keep the FG830.
If you haven’t done so, take and have a setup done on it. You’ll be glad you did.
__________________
Martin D-35 Martin 000-18 |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I really wouldn't bother replacing the nut. It is very unlikely that you will notice any difference in tone. If you needed a new nut anyways, then replace it. Otherwise, just leave it alone. The saddle is a fairly easy piece to replace. If you are at all handy, you could buy a couple blanks and try your skills at making a new one yourself. It really isn't hard. I have made at least 30 of them over the years from complete blanks. The key is getting it to be the right size and then working on the dimensions. However, you don't need to go this far, as there are companies that will mostly do all the hard work for you and you may just need to fine-tune it. Still way cheaper than your quoted price.
Lastly, your fret may need some attention. It's hard to say without seeing the guitar. The shop is likely charging you for a general setup + build a nut + build a saddle to come up with that price. So, forget the nut and the price will come down. To my mind, the nut is the hardest thing to do and get right in that list of items. If it took me half hour to make a saddle, I would likely spend 2 hours on a proper nut to get it right. I have made a few, but they take much more work. Good luck! Martin
__________________
***************************** Gibson L-00 Standard 2018 Yamaha FS5 2020 Gibson J-45 Standard 2020 |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
$200 is far too much, unless an entire re-fret, or partial re-fret is in order, which is unlikely. As mentioned, a bone nut and saddle can be purchased online for $7. I actually got two, and yes they are real bone. The smell when sanding/filing is unmistakable. A second vote for DIY. Go slow. A little sand paper and some cheap Harbor Freight files. It's not rocket science. Fret leveling is a whole other thing. I've owned many Yamaha acoustic guitars since 2010 and can tell you that none of then had fretwork so bad that they needed a fret level, though it can certainly make a big difference in the perfect setup.
__________________
As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, everyone. I think I'm going by people's suggestions and keeping the Yamaha, having the frets checked out, and leaving the stock saddle and nut. I may just try DIYing the saddle at some point. COVID World gives me a lot of free time.
Much appreciated! |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Good call.
To think buying a $350 RK and it will be set up ***PERFECTLY*** right out of the box is fantasy, so if you are not a DIY’er you’d be laying out money to get that one right, anyway. Heck, even most new Martins require a little tweaking to get it set up exactly to the individual player’s preference. |
|
Tags |
recommendations, recording king, yamaha, yamahafg830 |
Thread Tools | |
|