need help with a problem

[johbren]

I have an eastman 322ce. I switched to elixer nanoweb medium and tune a whole step down D-standard. I like to play led zepplins Rain Song which on d standard tuning all I have to do is make the G string from F to g and the b string up to c. However when i do this the g string will snap at the tuner post. I tried using a string to file out any burrs in the post but itstill keeps breaking the string at the post. I just so happend that i had some gold/pearl tuners from a 12 string Takamine so i put them in. Also got some nut lube and filed the nut slot a little. It worked a few time and then right in the middle of a wedding it broke again. Luckily I brought my 312 taylor just in case of this happening. Any info would be greatly appriciated THANKS.

[Shaneh]

If new tuners still have a problem, either there is an issue with the nut or you tuning too high for the string

[johbren]

im really only taking the g string to standard pich as im tuned to d standard

[blindboyjimi]

I would trim the G string by putting the string in the bridge and wrapping the string around the G post and cut it at the e treble post. This will put about 5 wraps on the G post and having no part to the string putting pressure against the string post hole. The hole should be completely covered.

[stillsteven]

The third string (G string in std tuning) has the thinnest steel core of the six strings, no surprise it breaks more so than others. You said the string snaps near the tuning post. That indicates burred or sharp edges on the tuning post as you probably know already. Using an old string may or may not remove the burr entirely. A proper file or sandpaper will get the job done. And I agree with previous suggestion to put about 5 wraps to cover the hole completely.

[Mandobart]

How do you wind your strings? People I know who employ the "poke-n-crank" method have more strings break. That's where you run the string through the hole in the roller (tuning machine post) and then crank up to pitch. This puts more string tension on that first sharp kink in the string, making it more likely to break there.

I've always strung all my fretted instruments by first wrapping around the roller (3 times for wound strings, 5 times for plain strings) then run the wild end through the roller hole above the wraps before bring them up to pitch, and then trim the wild end last. This way some of the string tension is taken up by the wraps on the roller.

Tuning and retuning a string repeatedly adds fatigue cycles to the string, hastening its demise.

[Athens]

If the string keeps breaking at the post you should look for a blur on the post where the string passes through.

[The Bard Rocks]

I'd be tuning the guitar down a step or even two, keeping the same relative pitch of course. It makes me nervous to tune any string above standard, not good for the guitar, not good for the string, and I always bring them back as soon as I can afterwards. If I were breaking strings and could not identify a burr or sharp spot on the post, this would be an added incentive to handle it this way. If it was in that specific key for a reason such as playing with others, or for your specific vocal range, then add a capo.

There's no song I want to play bad enough to put up with breaking strings.