![]() |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi , thanks for reading this as I do need some guidance.
In the process of removing the neck of a Yamaha 1979 FG 151B for an angle reset, the area under the fretboard extension got badly damaged by the palate knife ( well... by the operator thereof). The reset angle work is completed, but before regluing the neck back in, I want to repair this damage in the photo. This amount of damage is new territory for me as in other resets where some chunks of spruce have torn out, I've been able to splice and titebond glue in pieces of spruce back in and sand level. The tearing of the spruce this time is very splintered, shredded really, fibrous. So I was thinking to FIRST bind the area along the same lines as repairing cracks etc with applying CA thin superglue to the whole area of damage, wicking binding all fibres and wicking into edges of the surrounding undamaged top wood. Id then want to apply a filler and sand level the entire damaged area, BUT will (say) 20 or 30 second superglue bond to a cured superglue surface ? If not a good idea, could I use fish glue instead ![]() My thinking there is, I understand that the surface of fish glue can be re-activated with water, so perhaps (?), I could do a mist spray of water onto the cured fish glue, and immediately apply a thicker fill coat of fish glue, which I assume would bond to the previous cured but re-activate coat. However, will fish glue adhere to dry fish glue ? As I know Titebond does not bond to itself.. Once that area is repaired, I would be making a rosewood wedge to fill the air gap under the FB extension due to neck angle reset , so the use of a glue that will bond to a glue contact surface for that operation is a tied in question here too. Hoping you can give some guidance or a better alternative. Thankyou. Last edited by donnyb; 10-01-2023 at 07:07 PM. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]() ![]() |