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#31
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The hard part for me is using a thumbpick and finger picks.
I prefer naked, but don't get that "punch" |
#32
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Personally, I would never use a shim or other means to raise the action any higher than on a normal acoustic guitar, because I am constantly both sliding and fretting behind the slide. Raising the action messes with the intonation when fretting and makes it more difficult.
IMO, it's far better to work on your slide technique so you aren't clanking it on the frets. A lighter-weight slide can help. If you aren't ever fretting the strings, a lap steel or square-neck might be a better choice of instrument. |
#33
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"Here is a song about the feelings of an expensive, finely crafted, hand made instrument spending its life in the hands of a musical hack" |
#34
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You didn't say what model. I think most of their guitars come with light 12-53 Daddario Phosphor Bronze and are understrung, in which case I would probably keep with something along those lines. The reason is some of their resonators are more substantial than others, but the cones might be the same for all their resonators and there isn't a manufacturer replacement for that.
My Minniebucker is considerably lighter than most resonators that I have played and I think part might be the weight of the the cone, coverplate and tailpiece. If the guitar is understrung the risk might be - depending on the specific model you have - issues with the size of the strings not agreeing with the model and causing buzzes. I use banding material to shim nuts, thought I like the idea of aluminum as noted earlier. I keep my slides in those ziplock containers - nothing special. When I tried to change the tuning on my Minniebucker from open D to G it didn't accept it - I have 2 Republic resonators that I change string weight and tunings with no issues - and since I like the way it played in open D, I tuned it back and may get a second for open G. Harriet
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#35
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Bottoming out is what teaches control; a nut extender often allows/encourages a heavy-handed approach that has to be overcome later. |
#36
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Saw this in a little shop on Kaua'i a couple days ago and thought of this thread.
Last edited by tinnitus; 04-30-2023 at 10:33 AM. |
#37
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Hi, I'm somewhat concerned tat we haven't seen/heard from Tenzin since his OP in 27/2.
He mentioned that he had a "biscuit" cone type reso, which is best suited to "bottleneck" Bluesy styles, so I'm a bit confused as to why people are talking about raising the nut/action - which simply isn't necessary unless playing lap style. All that is needed is a set of medium gauge strings and a slightly heavier 1st string. Remember with blues /bottleneck style you still need to fret normally. Are you still watching this Tenzin?
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#38
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Andy, I probably started that whole "shim the nut" tangent. It was based on some advice that a local -and very good - bottleneck player told me when I started up. He advised raising the nut slightly -one or two strips cut from a business card, to give a little more clearance when first learning to control the slide without constant bonking the frets. It was intended as a temporary thing to help a beginner gt started. I quickly found that three strips was to high, played with two for a month or so and then one. I found it very good advice. Along with using as short a slide as you can get away with to enhance control, it allowed me to focus on controlling the slide.
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"Here is a song about the feelings of an expensive, finely crafted, hand made instrument spending its life in the hands of a musical hack" |
#39
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I thank everyone for their input.
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-- Patience is a strength, not a weakness; and if by practicing patience we stop retaliating to harm and criticism, people will gradually come to understand that our real nature is very special. |
#40
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Having recently bought a resonator and wanting to dive into slide, this thread has been interesting to me. But this talk of raising the nut/action, or not, is pretty fuzzy. What are you raising the action from, or to? I know people that like the action on all their guitars to be higher than I'd use. Someone like that might not need to raise it for slide. Others like is super low and might need to raise it.
So, I'm curious, what action (at the 12th and 1st) do you normally like when playing slide (in round neck fashion)? And did you start there or lower it as your slide technique got better. Right now I feel like I'm wielding a club. |
#41
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How long is your slide? Hope much past the end of your finger does it go? The more it sticks out past the fingertip, the harder to control.They are often longer than they need be. Mine just barely cover all 6 strings, but then again, I seldom do 6 string slides anyway. Most are 1 to 4 strings. OMMV
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"Here is a song about the feelings of an expensive, finely crafted, hand made instrument spending its life in the hands of a musical hack" Last edited by Mycroft; 05-01-2023 at 04:49 PM. |
#42
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I'd advise a heavy steel or brass bottleneck - get one a little bigger than your pinky and "size it" with a sliver of leather inside. I've been through a pile of expensive slides but ordinary off the shelf brass Dunlops are pretty good - 224 or similar. I fret a lot when playing slide and use it sparingly. A heavier slide does the work, and the power comes from the picking hand. A bit like this :
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#43
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Thanks to you both. Very helpful. I'm just starting to collect slides. Currently settling on a brass Rock Slide that just barely covers 6 strings.
The F12 action on the new reso is nearly 4/32" on the bass and 3/32 on the treble, way higher than I normally use. But I think I'll use it to start out with and see how it goes. I'll give the thicker treble a go as well. Quote:
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#44
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Wade Hampton's post of 03/11/20 says -
..... Don Young at the National Reso-Phonic Guitar Company and I discussed this, back in the early 2000's ...... I asked him exactly this same question, and Don told me you can use any strings you want. The guitar just needs to be set up for it. When Bob Brozman published his book about Nationals he wrote that anything less than medium gauge strings could "damage" National guitars. Don rolled his eyes as he told me this, and said that the next time he and Mac spoke to Brozman they said: "Oh, come ON, Bob!" Short version: ... National guitars and other resonator instruments are customarily strung with medium gauge strings or heavier when dropped tunings are used, but there's nothing wrong with using lighter strings, either. You just need to make sure the guitar is set up for the strings that you choose to use. ################################################## ############## I use Elixir mediums 13 - 56 on my MM Blues and Lightnin' resonators, replacing the 13 ist string with a 15, on the Blues (the action is a little lower). Have a look at the Washboard Resonators YT channel for tons of advice about resos - string types, slides to vintage resonators. https://www.youtube.com/@TheWashboardResonators I have 2 Diamond Bottleneck glass slides - they're fantastic. I find brass slides too heavy. Look at https://diamondbottlenecks.com/ for info about slides - Ian, the MD is a member of this forum, and very helpful. I keep my two slides in a shallow mug, covering the mug with tissue paper. Phil
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Seagull S6 Original Furch Stanford D1P MM Blues MM Lightning |
#45
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I'm relatively new to resos and slide playing. I'm setup 6/32 and 4/32 at the 12th in standard tuning with 12-53 strings. It's a challenge, but I find I'm getting used to it. I'm holding off on going up on the 1st string gauge as long as I'm making progress with my technique.
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Martin OM28 Perry Bechtel Martin 000M Gibson 50s J45 Mule resonator Takamine G335 12 Baby Taylor Gretsch 5120T Gibson ES335 Fender '52 AVRI Ibanez Roadstar II bass |