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#16
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Ray:
PM heading your way... Taylorplayer
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Will |
#17
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Hi Ray. Just for comparison here is the break angle on my National Triolian. Not nearly as much as your under saddle setup, but mine plays nice and sweet.
I'm no expert on resonators, but I would be a bit concerned about putting too much pressure on the cone with the strings run under the saddle like you have. I used to have a Gold Tone steel body resonator that had buzzing issues. For a while I suspected that the break angle might be the culprit. So I went to a local shop that carries Nationals and checked them out. Saw they were setup with similar to my Gold Tone. Eventually I figured out that the cone had slipped a little to one side and repositioning it took care of the buzzing. Unfortunately the damage had already been done while I was checking out the Nationals and I convinced myself I had to upgrade. ![]() Anyway, good luck with your instrument. Mark |
#18
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Thanks for the photo, Mark. It lets me know about where this one is going to end up when I restring it in the AM. Very helpful.
I can't afford to check in guitar stores: I stopped into Elderly's several months ago to buys some picks -- I walked out with the res. ![]() Ray
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Trying to Learn Something New Every Day ... |
#19
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Ray,
you can actually put the balls ends under without changing the set of strings. Just tune down enough to remove the balls from the tailpiece, and put them the other way. You can see (or hear) the difference. One string at a time is a good idea, although you'll have difficulty to remove the balls as the pressure will push the tailpiece near the coverplate. If you detune all the strings, removing the balls will be easier, but put a capo on the 5 or 7 fret to keep them in place, and, as previously said, retune the guitar to balance the pressure on the cone. Tune one side only to pitch is not recommended indeed. The whole string angle/pressure on cone is a long time discussion. Everybody seems to have an opinion on that. I have resos with a sharp angle, others with almost no angle. But I'm using resos in a quite non-conventional way (no blues, no slide, bare fingers), so YMMV. BTW, thank you for listening my you tube channel. Happy you like it. I should make more. |
#20
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I figured out that Stringing the strings on the Resonator Guitar underneath the Tailpiece lip allows you to switch over to lighter gauge strings for easier playability (like 11s or 10s) because it compensates for the reduced volume by putting them at a steeper angle over the bridge.
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#21
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Dunno much about Regal but I imagine they use a copy of the National style tailpiece.
Here's a pic of my Estralita tailpiece. Note that I put a sliver of leather between the top edge and the cone cover.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#22
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Well a good tip if you're using really Light Gauge Strings (11s, 10s, 9s, or thinner) on a Resonator Guitar so you can play it like a Regular Guitar to get a different sound is to string them "backwards" underneath the tailpiece lip instead of over it because it'll increase the break angle over the bridge.
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#23
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Under the tailpiece could put too much pressure on the cone(s) and result in a crush. This is what you want to go for:
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#24
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Oddly there is another thread at michaelmesser's slide guitar forum that goes over the issues and Michael Messer has come on and given a run down of the case against it. I believe he also addresses overstringing and gives his opinion.
I hope the admins don't object to my linking to the thread: https://michaelmesser.proboards.com/...ngs-tail-piece I have a Recording King that is understrung and I am keeping to the exact specifications that it was set up in terms of string weight and brand - I don't know how to modify a tailpiece and overstringing reduces the break angle. I don't want to deal with any of that since it plays well as is. Regal, Gretch and Recording King all seem to have some models with understringing to improve break angle as has been noted here, and I think to accomodate light strings in at least woodbody models. The are not like Nationals or high end boutique models where you can get a replacement from the manufacturer or place you bought from if you collapse the cone or break the tailpiece.
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http://www.youtube.com/user/studio249 Last edited by slide496; 04-06-2023 at 07:18 AM. |
#25
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Stringing the strings below the tailpiece lip is actually safer if you switch to lighter gauge strings.
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