3 on a plate tuners to fit gibson 2017 sj-200 guitar

[ScaryLarry]

Hi I am looking for some gold 3 on a plate tuners to fit my 2017 gibson sj-200 guitar. I can't seem to find any with the appropriate hole to hole spacing which is around 1.570". Would like gold and the head-stock washers are around .590"

Larry

[Brucebubs]

Why would you want 3 on a plate tuners over the original 6 individual tuner set up?

StewMac sells a Grover keystone tuner with screw in/washer bushing. https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-ha...d3-tuners.html

[ArchtopLover]

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

Why would you want 3 on a plate tuners over the original 6 individual tuner set up?

StewMac sells a Grover keystone tuner with screw in/washer bushing.

I'm thinking the same thing. A Gibson SJ-200 is not going to benefit from cheap 3-on-a-plate tuners. They are almost all standard 1-3/8" on-center string post spacing, and usually are a lower cost solution. I have used the Grover Deluxe tuners on a many of my earlier Gibson flat tops. Love the look of the onyx green, tulip shaped, plastic, single ring buttons on a Gibson headstock .

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by ArchtopLover

I'm thinking the same thing. A Gibson SJ-200 is not going to benefit from cheap 3-on-a-plate tuners. They are almost all standard 1-3/8" on-center string post spacing, and usually are a lower cost solution. I have used the Grover Deluxe tuners on a many of my earlier Gibson flat tops. Love the look of the onyx green, tulip shaped, plastic, single ring buttons on a Gibson headstock .

My new Historic 1957 SJ-200 came with these Gotoh keystone tuners - they are superb!



Note there is no serial number stamped on the back of the headstock as per the original 1957 model.

[ScaryLarry]

Ok so the main reason for the 3 on a plate tuners is because the guitar came with Grover 136G tuners which I really like, but, the one on the B string was not flush with the back of the head-stock. When I took it off to see why, there were two broken off tuner screws embedded into the head-stock and a screw head only was presumably glued onto the tuner. I purchased the guitar used.

It functions fine, and I might be able to file the broken off screws flush but was thinking about a nice high quality 3 on a plate set of tuners to cover the broken off screws.

Thanks for the replies.

[Brucebubs]

Is there enough of the broken off tuner screws thread exposed to grab with a pair of needle nose locking pliers? I've had success with clamping on the exposed thread as hard as possible then unscrewing out the broken piece.

[ArchtopLover]

Originally Posted by ScaryLarry

Ok so the main reason for the 3 on a plate tuners is because the guitar came with Grover 136G tuners which I really like, but, the one on the B string was not flush with the back of the head-stock. When I took it off to see why, there were two broken off tuner screws embedded into the head-stock and a screw head only was presumably glued onto the tuner. I purchased the guitar used.

It functions fine, and I might be able to file the broken off screws flush but was thinking about a nice high quality 3 on a plate set of tuners to cover the broken off screws.

Thanks for the replies.

OK, I get it. So, with a maple neck/headstock, the main issue is how snug the screws fit, since maple is so much harder than mahogany.

A Gibson SJ-200 is a wonderful guitar so, I for one, would prefer to remove the broken screw(s), and replace them. As suggested by Brucebubs, a small needle nose locking pliers may work, but I prefer a more precision type of tool for this application like this:

needlenose pliers 2.jpg

Before attempting to grip the tiny screw with the pliers, you're going to want to loosen the screw slightly first.

Here is how this is done. To begin, you will need a low wattage soldering iron, 25 watts is good enough, with a pointed tip. What you need to do is gently heat the portion of the screw that is exposed. This is an old woodworking trick, used to remove stubbornly stuck parts. By heating the screw, the surrounding wood is dried out and shrinks, ever so slightly, loosening its grip on the steel threads. Don't over do it, too much heat and you will burn the finish surrounding the screw.

With the headstock masked off, to protect the surrounding areas, and the headstock setting level, use the soldering iron to apply heat to the exposed metal screw only. Once, you can see the little screw rock or move a little, you will then want to grip the tiny screw with the needle nose pliers. Sorry, but some gouging of the surrounding finish and wood is inevitable. However, once the screw is backed out, any damage can then be repaired with a small maple plug, the hole redrilled to the proper diameter and the original tuner replaced.

Hope this helps and good luck.

[John Arnold]

Needle nose pliers is my go to tool, but if money is no object, Stew Mac sells a kit to bore it out.

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...escue-kit.html

[Glen H]

I saw someone somewhere take a very small piece of copper tube, just slightly larger than the broken screw diameter, cut some saw tooth teeth in the end and chuck it in a drill. Drill pull and plug.

[pickinray]

If you can't get the screws out, another option would be these Hipshot tuners with Universal Mounting Plates:

https://hipshotproducts.com/collecti...=8806502695011

You can order different buttons separately, if you don't like the stock buttons. Hipshots are easy to install - they do not require any drilling in your headstock. They are available in 8.5 mm (vintage) and 10 mm post hole sizes. I recently put a set of Hipshots on my Martin OM-16 and I'm very pleased with them.

[Normandy74]

are the pegheads on the string side supposed to have a little "wiggle" to them when no string is attached ?

[John Arnold]

If you mean tuner posts, the answer is yes.