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  #16  
Old 10-18-2012, 01:16 PM
jeepnstein jeepnstein is offline
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Eastman...item2c68fbc038
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  #17  
Old 10-18-2012, 01:46 PM
JiggsNReels JiggsNReels is offline
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There are few good brands out there in your price range. However, I highly reccommend Eastman. By far the best Mandolin for the price. Definitely the best Mandolins made outside North America.

I've played Eastmans that sound and play as nice as the expensive parlor style mandos that are in the 3k and 4K range.
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  #18  
Old 10-18-2012, 02:51 PM
Tunes Tunes is offline
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Thanks all for the info to date - I am reading it all .... keep it coming.

So far, Kentucky and Eastmans seem to be coming out on top for the sub- $1,000 price range.
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Last edited by Tunes; 10-18-2012 at 03:02 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-18-2012, 03:19 PM
Billm2067 Billm2067 is offline
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Here's another one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastman-MD51...item35c0b3df42
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  #20  
Old 10-18-2012, 03:30 PM
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Just my opinion but for that money, I might suggest looking for a used flat top like Weber, Big Muddy, or Flatiron. Under $1000 is not going to get you much of a F style, might get you into a decent entry level A, but it would get you a top of the line flat top.
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  #21  
Old 10-18-2012, 04:50 PM
GerryinAZ GerryinAZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunes View Post
Thanks all for the info to date - I am reading it all .... keep it coming.

So far, Kentucky and Eastmans seem to be coming out on top for the sub- $1,000 price range.
Go with either one. You can find a very nice used, hand made, solid wood, F style Eastman or Kentucky for well under $1K.

Kentucky's are pretty traditional sounding in tone. Nice & dry. Great for Bluegrass.

Eastman's are a little more modern sounding and can be used for a multitude of styles.

With a little searching of the mando-oriented site classifieds, odds are pretty good you will end up with an instrument that will be more than adequate to learn on...and beyond.

I still have an Eastman F4 I bought back in 2004. It's a an awesome little player.
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  #22  
Old 10-18-2012, 04:52 PM
GerryinAZ GerryinAZ is offline
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..........
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  #23  
Old 11-14-2012, 10:15 PM
tempest_col tempest_col is offline
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I've currently got a Flatiron I'm selling. Nothing too fancy, but a lot of character.

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/f...d.php?t=272162

In any case, hope you find something great!
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  #24  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:08 PM
BenPorter BenPorter is offline
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I've owned a Kentucky KM620 for about ten years and think it's a good value. The Fstyle sound is nice when I dabble in bluegrass, but if I had to do it again I would buy an AStyle, as I tend to play with singer-songwriters mostly and like the more resonant sound of the open strings and more open chords. I use a Fishman M300 pickup through a Spectrum DI and am quite happy with my plugged-in sound.
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  #25  
Old 11-18-2012, 09:50 AM
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Default Advice on Mandolin

In that price range it's tough to be Kentucky mandolins.

Todd
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2012, 04:56 PM
GerryinAZ GerryinAZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenPorter View Post
I've owned a Kentucky KM620 for about ten years and think it's a good value. The Fstyle sound is nice when I dabble in bluegrass, but if I had to do it again I would buy an AStyle, as I tend to play with singer-songwriters mostly and like the more resonant sound of the open strings and more open chords. I use a Fishman M300 pickup through a Spectrum DI and am quite happy with my plugged-in sound.
There is no tonal difference between an F or A style body. Sound holes (ff violin-style, or oval hole) and wood choices affect the tone more than anything else.

99.9% of the PacRim instruments have a spruce top with maple back and sides. A very good combo and reliable for those just starting out.
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  #27  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:51 PM
cu4life7 cu4life7 is offline
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I highly (HIGHLY!) suggest giving up the idea of an F-style until you are sure that Mandolin is something you are going to stick with, because they are an investment at any price level compared to a similar or identical sounding A body style.

I also second Big Muddy (or Mid Missouri as they used to be known) for a first mandolin. These are flattop A style round hole mandos made right here in the good ole' united states of america, and they sound excellent. Like you, I came into the idea looking for a sunburst F-style since I am a traditionalist at heart, but I couldn't stomach the price going up without the tone improving from an A. So I bought a Big Muddy as my first learner mandolin and I must say that I absolutely love it. A lot of the fellows at mandolincafe.com keep a big muddy as a second mando when they have a gibson F as their primary.

Being a flattop, Big Muddy's handle strumming and have a longer sustain than a carved top. If you are determined for an F, I recommend saving for an eastman. I am not sure what price they go for these days, but look used and keep saving and you'll get there. Have fun, I really enjoy mandolin when playing with groups especially!!
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  #28  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:41 AM
dwalton dwalton is offline
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I would talk to Dennis at the Mandolin Store about a nice new or used A mandolin in your price range. They'll do a solid setup on it and you'll be good to go.
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  #29  
Old 11-21-2012, 01:40 PM
BenPorter BenPorter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerryinAZ View Post
There is no tonal difference between an F or A style body. Sound holes (ff violin-style, or oval hole) and wood choices affect the tone more than anything else.

99.9% of the PacRim instruments have a spruce top with maple back and sides. A very good combo and reliable for those just starting out.

Yes, a large part of the difference in tone is a result of the wood choice (tonewoods) and the soundhole location and size. But mandolin tone is also effected by thickness of the top, bracing and how large the resonating cavity (body) is. If you were to compare to Gibsons with the same bracing and wood (A9 vs F9), they would sound very close, although not identical. The subtle difference at that point would be the weight/cavity of the scroll.

On a sidenote, if you're going to be playing any bluegrass at all, you would want to consider the F-style silhouette, although I see Mike Compton playing Astyle some of the time.
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  #30  
Old 11-22-2012, 10:52 AM
GerryinAZ GerryinAZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenPorter View Post
Yes, a large part of the difference in tone is a result of the wood choice (tonewoods) and the soundhole location and size. But mandolin tone is also effected by thickness of the top, bracing and how large the resonating cavity (body) is. If you were to compare to Gibsons with the same bracing and wood (A9 vs F9), they would sound very close, although not identical. The subtle difference at that point would be the weight/cavity of the scroll.

On a sidenote, if you're going to be playing any bluegrass at all, you would want to consider the F-style silhouette, although I see Mike Compton playing Astyle some of the time.
Sorry, but the scroll is a solid block of wood and has no effect on the tonal qualities of the instrument.

I actually owned and A9 and F9 for a period and they sounded identical. That's why I didn't own both for very long. I've also had the chance, having the advantage of living a few minutes away from two stores that carry large mandolin inventories: Acoustic Vibes and The Mandolin Store, and have had the chance to A/B more of the two styles on many occasions and the body style had little effect on the tone.

Look up Dr. Dave Cohen on the mandolin cafe website. He is an acoustic engineer and has done extensive study on sound waves created by the tops on mandolins and he scientifically proves there is no difference.

Also having to have an F style to play Bluegrass is a bunch of gobbledy-gook! Find any style of instrument that has a nice, dry tone (any ff holed instrument will do this)and it works just fine.
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