The Acoustic Guitar Forum

Go Back   The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Archtops

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 01-04-2021, 10:04 PM
antvas1963 antvas1963 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 175
Default Setting new rosewood bridge

I am replacing my stock bridge with a rosewood one for my aibanez AF75. I bought one from Amazon for around $10. I probably should have bought the stew Mac one. Machining on it is rough but I can make it work. I sanded it so it would fit the top perfectly.
I am not sure whether I need to notch where the strings contact the bridge or do I just leave it?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-05-2021, 09:23 AM
ArchtopLover's Avatar
ArchtopLover ArchtopLover is offline
Charter Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Blanchardville, Wisconsin
Posts: 122
Default Notch the top the bridge saddle?

I do. When I make a new saddle, or replace an archtop bridge, I will first check the profile of the bottom of the bridge foot and correct any defects. Once the contact surface is perfect, I will then position the new bridge for proper centerline alignment and intonation. Then I mark the position of the high and low E strings with a pencil, (traditionally the same distance in from the edge of the fret board as at the nut). Then, using my Stewmac string spacing rule, I'll mark out the remaining strings as per the instructions on the ruler.

Once the string spacing is checked for accuracy, I cut small, temporary notches with my nut files, string up to concert pitch, check string action and neck relief. If everything seems to be in good order, I deepen the notches to drop the strings to the depth of the height of each string, then, raise the saddle to bring the string action back up to the proper height.

I do it this way for two reasons, first, I do not like the feel of the strings poking up above the saddle when I mute with my palm, and second, with the string buried in the saddle, there is very little chance that any string will "jump ship" when strumming hard .
__________________
Leonard

1918 Gibson L-1
1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board)
1930's Kalamazoo KG-32
1930's Gretsch F-50
1934 Gibson L-7
1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape)
1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back)
1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back)
1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head)
1948 Gibson L-50
1949 Epiphone Blackstone


"a sharp mind cuts cleaner than a sharp tool"
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-05-2021, 10:01 AM
MC5C MC5C is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Tatamagouche Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,136
Default

The only thing I do differently than Archtoplover is I check the radius of the top of the new saddle and adjust if needed. I want a gradually rising action height, 1/16" 12th fret high E and 3/32" low E, so that ends up being a radius slightly larger than the fretboard radius. If I do a 14" radius on my fretboard (typical for me) then I start with a 16" radius on the saddle and adjust from there. You can equally do this with slot depth and once you get each string's action height exactly where you want it, you can trim the very top of the saddle so the slot depths are also where you want them.
__________________
Brian Evans
Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-05-2021, 11:14 AM
antvas1963 antvas1963 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 175
Default

Thank you for the info, I will go ahead and slot those today.
Reply With Quote
Reply

  The Acoustic Guitar Forum > General Acoustic Guitar and Amplification Discussion > Archtops

Thread Tools





All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, The Acoustic Guitar Forum
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=