Build: Sam Radding Go-Guitar replica

[AG123]

Great, thank you.

[AG123]

Side dots (in mother of pearl) and fretboard markers (in paua to complement the rosette) on the rosewood fretboard.

I asked for a radius after the 17th fret to complement the bottom of the guitar.

[AG123]

Fretboard glued to the neck. It's just been oiled so it looks a bit dark. The paua markers look lovely and complement the rosette nicely.

[SJ VanSandt]

This looks like it will lots of fun! I hope you will share a couple of sound files or videos with us - I would love to hear it both plugged and unplugged. I really like that rosette and binding - great colors!

Stan

[AG123]

Thanks Stan. I should be receiving it sometime next month and will post a review with soundclips.

[TokyoNeko]

Coming along quite nicely. I'll definitely make a similar thread when it's my time.

BTW, I changed the back/sides to EIR as well. Apparently, Lindsay wasn't aware that the CITES rosewood restrictions were amended in 2019 to enable shipping of finished instruments without permits. Now that he knows, he agreed to change the woods from Khaya to EIR. I think the extra cost will certainly be worth it, in terms of looks and the tone. The additional overtones should be especially helpful in a small instrument like this.

[AG123]

Thanks TokyoNeko. Pleased to hear that you're going with Indian rosewood. I agree it's worth the extra expense.

[AG123]

Time to install the frets. The photos show the stainless steel fretwire being radiused, the tangs being nipped, the ends being filled, and the frets being installed.

The paua fretmarkers look stunning against the dark rosewood and they really complement the rosette nicely. The reflectance of the paua fretmarkers is known as chatoyancy. That's a new word for my vocabulary.

Still quite a bit to do.

[TokyoNeko]

So far the differences between yours and mine...

Sitka top vs. Carpathian
Cutaway vs. none
Stainless frets vs. EVO Gold
EIR fretboard/bridge/veneer vs. Rocklite Sundari
EIR bindings vs. Rocklite Ebona/Sundari
Top pufling vs. none
Radiused fretboard end vs. straight
Miscellaneous difference in fret markers (mine will be simpler)

[AG123]

You've got a great spec there. I'm intrigued by the gold frets. I'll be reading your build diary with real interest!

[TokyoNeko]

You can search for "EVO Gold" here and get lots of information/opinions/testimonies on the subject. But as a quick summary, it's a nice compromise between stainless and nickel.

I've had my custom for 4 years, and the EVO frets on it show absolutely no wear. I can't really speak for the sonic differences between EVO and nickel, because the guitar came with EVO from the beginning. But it's good to know that it'll probably never need fret replacement in my lifetime.

Because EVO is not as hard as stainless, many luthiers/repairmen prefer to work with EVO. If I ever get another high-end guitar that comes with nickel frets, I'll most likely have it re-fretted with EVO.

Did you choose stainless just for the durability? Or do you prefer the apparent "ping" effect?

[AG123]

I went for durability. Also, having selected chrome hardware, I wanted to keep the theme going.

[AG123]

Into the final bend as the headstock veneer and bridge (in Indian rosewood to match the back and sides) are glued.

I was a bit undecided about the wood for the truss rod cover and was trying to choose between Indian rosewood and Honduran mahogany (to match the neck). I've asked for both so that I can decide at home.

[AG123]

Neck being shaped. I asked for the neck to flare out at the body for easy access beyond the 12th fret.

Also a small amount of fret levelling and re-crowning.

The paua fretmarkers look really beautiful on the rosewood fretboard.

[AG123]

The neck is finished after some final shaping (by sight and feel).

We're into the home straight now as the guitar enters the spray booth for a few base coats (in readiness for lacquer next week).