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  #16  
Old 04-21-2013, 08:45 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Looks nice.

If your router bit isn't exactly the width of the strip, you can save a lot of time in repositioning the straight edge that your router follows. Instead of fiddling with the position of the straight edge to get the width of the cut exactly right, you can create an eccentric router base by applying layers of masking tape to the circular portion of the edge of your router base. That way, you leave the straight edge where it is, and just rotate the router until you have the necessary offset to give you the cut width needed to just match the inlay strip.
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  #17  
Old 04-21-2013, 08:48 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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Thanks! I wish I'd thought of that! I've got to remember that for the next next build!
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2013 OLF MJ (DIY build, western red cedar, Honduran mahogany)
2012 McKnight McUkulele
2009 Martin D-16GT
2006 Larrivee OM-03R
1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (Natural ash)
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  #18  
Old 04-21-2013, 12:33 PM
arie arie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
I glued up the rosewood back today:




I'll take it out tomorrow and then work on inlaying the back strip. After that I'm going to plane it and the sides down to about .09" thick. The top is thicknessed down to around 3mm (.120") which is around where it needs to be. I need to finish my template and rout the rosette channels.

if i might humbly suggest, here's my plate joining fixture i built. i find that by leaving the center open (with wax paper on the bottom) drying time is significantly reduced because the water in the glue (titebond) has a place to evaporate from instead of being trapped under wax paper. drying time for this walnut back was about an hour.




like your posts. keep up the good work!
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  #19  
Old 04-21-2013, 02:40 PM
jared1177 jared1177 is offline
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I took my rosewood sides down to 2.2mm. The back to around 2.4mm. After final sanding they wound up at 2 and 2.2.
I've found for the first few builds the bracing tends to be a bit too much and over braced, timidness creeps in of possibly shaving too much on them. 3mm is a good safe start, but also ok to go down to 2.9 or even 2.8. The stiff bracing will compensate for the thinner top and should come out with a nice marriage between the two.
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2013 Jared Booth OM - eurospruce/mahogany
2014 Jared Booth 00 - europspruce/rosewood
2015 Jared Booth 00 - sitka/mahogany
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  #20  
Old 12-22-2013, 03:41 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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Now that my #1 is built I'm hoping to pick back up on this build. I like the feel of the OLF medium jumbo body so much though that I'm considering on doing it again with this set of wood - but still go with the forward-shifted X bracing. I've been looking over the specs of the Martin J-40 and it seems to be generally similar in body size. I still haven't decided what to do for binding and now am reconsidering on using the short scale neck that I have because making the laminated/bolt on neck on my first was so much fun as well.
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2013 OLF MJ (DIY build, western red cedar, Honduran mahogany)
2012 McKnight McUkulele
2009 Martin D-16GT
2006 Larrivee OM-03R
1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (Natural ash)
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  #21  
Old 12-27-2013, 02:44 AM
jared1177 jared1177 is offline
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hey. you braced the Carpathian top yet? my first build I used Carpathian and its a rather stiff light wood. i wanted to intitially stop thickness sanding at 3mm since that is the ideal ballpark area, however the top was still super stiff with no wobble. i continued on and eventually stopped at 2.5mm where the wobble was good and still strong. i chose to use tapered bracing on this build and even after it was finished, i still went inside the soundhole and used my miniature finger planer to take down on the bracing. Carpathian is extremely stiff so check your thickness before bracing and gluing it up.
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2014 Jared Booth 00 - europspruce/rosewood
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  #22  
Old 12-28-2013, 11:51 AM
ruby50 ruby50 is offline
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I, too, am a fan of very straight grain with no drama - nice wood. The good news about the symmetry of your back is that it is indecisive what way it should go - this means that it is even and straight enough that it almost doesn't matter.
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  #23  
Old 01-10-2014, 01:03 AM
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Very pretty wood. Look forward to seeing this one progress. Your last turned out very nice.
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  #24  
Old 01-20-2014, 07:29 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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Thanks! I still need to tweak the neck angle and clean up the finish on the first one but I definitely have the urge to start this build back up. I keep flip-flopping on the body style though. Do I do a dread or another medium jumbo? I have this urge to build a strummer and do another cedar top later on.
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2013 OLF MJ (DIY build, western red cedar, Honduran mahogany)
2012 McKnight McUkulele
2009 Martin D-16GT
2006 Larrivee OM-03R
1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (Natural ash)
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  #25  
Old 01-20-2014, 11:01 AM
Viking Viking is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
Do I do a dread or another medium jumbo?
I despise dreadnaughts. Do the jumbo.
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  #26  
Old 03-26-2014, 07:52 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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Sorry, I've opted to make use of the CNC'd Martin neck (with V shaped profile) I was gifted with and do a short scale dreadnought. It will be an HD-28V SS. I've already ordered a 24.9" serviced ebony fretboard from LMI along with some curly maple binding strips (for the fingerboard) and fretwire. I also ordered pearl diamond inlays from Stewmac to fancy it up a little. Apart from the inlays, dovetail joint and forward shifting the braces I'm hoping things go a little more smoothly. I don't have to build jigs or forms this time. I'm also using serviced parts (like the neck and fretboard obviously) but will also be going with a serviced Martin belly bridge with 2-1/4" spacing at the saddle and prebent herringbone purfling for a dreadnought from Stewmac.

I need to find a good source for Dremel bits though. I'm having a hard time finding an alternative to Stewmac for downcut carbide bits with a 1/8" shank. Does anybody have any suggestions?
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~ Neil

2013 OLF MJ (DIY build, western red cedar, Honduran mahogany)
2012 McKnight McUkulele
2009 Martin D-16GT
2006 Larrivee OM-03R
1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (Natural ash)
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  #27  
Old 03-26-2014, 08:27 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
I need to find a good source for Dremel bits though. I'm having a hard time finding an alternative to Stewmac for downcut carbide bits with a 1/8" shank. Does anybody have any suggestions?
http://precisebits.com/default.htm
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  #28  
Old 03-26-2014, 09:40 PM
LouieAtienza LouieAtienza is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwakatak View Post
Sorry, I've opted to make use of the CNC'd Martin neck (with V shaped profile) I was gifted with and do a short scale dreadnought. It will be an HD-28V SS. I've already ordered a 24.9" serviced ebony fretboard from LMI along with some curly maple binding strips (for the fingerboard) and fretwire. I also ordered pearl diamond inlays from Stewmac to fancy it up a little. Apart from the inlays, dovetail joint and forward shifting the braces I'm hoping things go a little more smoothly. I don't have to build jigs or forms this time. I'm also using serviced parts (like the neck and fretboard obviously) but will also be going with a serviced Martin belly bridge with 2-1/4" spacing at the saddle and prebent herringbone purfling for a dreadnought from Stewmac.

I need to find a good source for Dremel bits though. I'm having a hard time finding an alternative to Stewmac for downcut carbide bits with a 1/8" shank. Does anybody have any suggestions?
LMT/Onsrud makes the best in my opinion. I use single-edge downcut and upcut spiral-o-flute bits for 1/8" and 1/16" which they both have. 64-000 for1/16" downcut, 65-000 for 1/16" upcut, and 65-013 for 1/8" upcut; these all have 1/8" shanks. 62-604 is 1/8" downcut with 1/8" shank.
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  #29  
Old 04-05-2014, 07:33 PM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
Thanks, Charles. Now to see how many and what sizes I need. I figure I need several slim enough to do a single purfling strip and diamond fretboard inlays, one wide enough for a bold BWB purfling strip and also something wide enough for the step for herringbone purfling/rosette ring.
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~ Neil

2013 OLF MJ (DIY build, western red cedar, Honduran mahogany)
2012 McKnight McUkulele
2009 Martin D-16GT
2006 Larrivee OM-03R
1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (Natural ash)
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  #30  
Old 04-06-2014, 07:47 AM
Neil K Walk Neil K Walk is online now
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I have, another question: the neck I have has some visual blemishes and some cracks that have been sealed with CA glue, leaving some areas darkened. I would like to stain the mahogany to cover this up and match the general hue of the rosewood back and sides. Would a water-based stain from a hardware store work or do I need something a bit more potent?
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~ Neil

2013 OLF MJ (DIY build, western red cedar, Honduran mahogany)
2012 McKnight McUkulele
2009 Martin D-16GT
2006 Larrivee OM-03R
1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (Natural ash)
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