#1
|
|||
|
|||
What do you use to pull up a tight saddle?
ok, this may be a silly question.. but nevertheless I want to hear if anyone has interesting ideas on this.
Consider a guitar that came with a saddle that's very tightly fitted in the slot (which is a wonderful thing by the way)... you want to pull it out of the slot, but are wary of using pliers, as they leave a bite mark on the saddle after that. what do you use to remove a tight saddle, without leaving a bite mark? any rubber pliers in the market? haha.. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Try some tape on the jaws of the pliers.
A little strip of wood on either side of the saddle should work too.
__________________
Brucebubs 1972 - Takamine D-70 2014 - Alvarez ABT60 Baritone 2015 - Kittis RBJ-195 Jumbo 2012 - Dan Dubowski#61 2018 - Rickenbacker 4003 Fireglo 2020 - Gibson Custom Shop Historic 1957 SJ-200 2021 - Epiphone 'IBG' Hummingbird |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
needle nose and old sock.
play music!
__________________
2014 Martin 00015M 2009 Martin 0015M 2008 Martin HD28 2007 Martin 000-18GE 2006 Taylor 712 2006 Fender Parlor GDP100 1978 Fender F65 1968 Gibson B25-12N Various Electrics |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Tape to prevent marring and then pliers.
__________________
Assuming is not knowing. Knowing is NOT the same as understanding. There is a difference between compassion and wisdom, however compassion cannot supplant wisdom, and wisdom can not occur without understanding. facts don't care about your feelings and FEELINGS ALONE MAKE FOR TERRIBLE, often irreversible DECISIONS |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Pincers with a bit of cloth over the saddle of suitable thickness, if necessary.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
A small pair of these with some tape on them to prevent damage.
__________________
Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
whoa.. aren't these cutters?
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
I have a very small pair. The main feature is that they grip a lot of area with that snub tip. You put some tape on there and it grabs the saddle very easily. You don't squeeze them hard. Just a little. Saddle comes right out without even a tiny mark.
Of course, if you squeeze real hard, the saddle will also come off.
__________________
Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I try to pry (alternating side to side) the far ends up slowly walking the saddle up out of the slot if the saddle doesn't stick up that high.
__________________
As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Is it a standard slot with closed ends, as opposed to a through saddle? Is the instrument new? The picture is a through-saddle…which could indicate a whole other set of issues removing it…(long/through saddles are sometimes glued in) Actually one wants to not apply too much upward force if a saddle is tightly fitted even in a standard saddle slot. Injury to a brace or the top are possible with excess force. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
hi Lj, I'm referring to the typical closed end saddles.
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I use a fret nipper similar to Juston’s. It only cuts if you squeeze too hard, and yes I learned that the hard way. Saddles are not that tight, ideally, but should be a finger grabbable slip fit. . . Especially if an under saddle PU is considered.
|