Guitar setup

[jonny707]

Should I deal with high action at the first fret by filing the nut before shaving the saddle to lower the 12 th fret action. Neck relief is fine.

[Talk2Me]

That may depend on the brand/type of guitar. What are we talking about here?

[dilver]

Saddle can be lowered easily and if you screw it up, you can just pop in a new saddle.

[John Arnold]

Yes.
Relief first. Then nut, then saddle last.
Check nut height by fretting the string between the second and third frets, and look for minimal clearance over the first fret. A strip of 20 lb copy paper works well to gauge the clearance. This is preferable to measuring first fret action.

[jonny707]

Thanks folks for the quick responses. 1

[WinnipegRocker]

I personally go neck, nut, saddle, in that order. And I always err on the high side

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

Yes.
Relief first. Then nut, then saddle last.
Check nut height by fretting the string between the second and third frets, and look for minimal clearance over the first fret. A strip of 20 lb copy paper works well to gauge the clearance. This is preferable to measuring first fret action.

This!

This will help...

[dnf777]

Sounds like you have a consensus answer, and I would agree with that.

Typically, when setting up a new build, I go neck..saddle...nut slots. My reasoning being that the saddle is far away from the frets and sets the global string height, while the nut really just has to be fine tuned to clear the first fret, for the most part. And since it is much closer to the fret that will cause it trouble, its a finer adjustment that I prefer to make once all else is adjusted and good.

In this case though, assuming you're happy elsewhere on the neck, I would (ever so gradually) lower that slot until you're happy. Good luck. (and have some powder and CA glue available, just in case!). I'm always amazed how much difference so little can change!

[rmp]

two things

whats it reading at the 12th fret ? 5/64s LE / 4/64s HE is a good ball park

when you play a D chord and you are sure your guitar is in tune, is that D chord still sounding "right" if "not" that's probably the nut slots

[jonny707]

The gap between the first fret and the bottom of the low E string is .030" and yet when I hold down the
lowE at the 3rd fret and check the gap it is only .005".
Do I need to file the nut slots a bit lower

[EZYPIKINS]

Want to know the answer, without having to ask anybody?

Check with a tuner.

I just addressed this on another thread.

If fretted first note is sharp. Slot is too high. Not rocket science.

.030 on string 6 is way high. I find .015 for string 6 to be a good starting point.

The smaller the string i.e. srtings 5 4 3 2 1. The smaller the gap. Don't try to mess with the saddle till this is done.

My preference is string 1-6 .010-.015.

Graduated .001 per string.

With the right tools this can be achieved in as little as 15 minutes.

With nothing but files, will take longer. As you have trial and error to deal with.

Don't know who came up with the diagram above. Checking Nut Slot Depth. I have seen this many times before.

If frets are uneven, you will have other problems.

Try this. Put a capo on at the first fret. Tune and play. Ask yourself.

Does it sound more in tune? Is it easier to play? Does it buzz?

Now get your feeler gauge. With capo still on, measure gap at the 2nd fret.(now the first fret).

I think you'll be surprised at how low it is. Simple

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by EZYPIKINS

Want to know the answer, without having to ask anybody?

Check with a tuner.

I just addressed this on another thread.

If fretted first note is sharp. Slot is too high. Not rocket science.

.030 on string 6 is way high. I find .015 for string 6 to be a good starting point.

The smaller the string i.e. srtings 5 4 3 2 1. The smaller the gap. Don't try to mess with the saddle till this is done.

My preference is string 1-6 .010-.015.

Graduated .001 per string.

With the right tools this can be achieved in as little as 15 minutes.

With nothing but files, will take longer. As you have trial and error to deal with.

Don't know who came up with the diagram above. Checking Nut Slot Depth. I have seen this many times before.

If frets are uneven, you will have other problems.

Try this. Put a capo on at the first fret. Tune and play. Ask yourself.

Does it sound more in tune? Is it easier to play? Does it buzz?

Now get your feeler gauge. With capo still on, measure gap at the 2nd fret.(now the first fret).

I think you'll be surprised at how low it is. Simple

The graphic for checking slot depth is mine. I (as well as others) have posted it many times in the past because it makes it easy for those unfamiliar with setting slot depth to understand what represents the ideal geometry.

I also usually recommend that anyone who wants correct and factual setup information should download Charles Tauber's excellent pdf guide to setup. It's been posted many times and easy to find with a site search:

Charles Tauber's Setup 101 Guide

[jonny707]

Thanks so much guys for all your help. I removed the saddle to shave some off it and found a 1.5 mm shim underneath. Discarded this and now rhe action is 1.75mm with no fret buzz. Seems to have sorted the problem. Cheers.

[Mirosh]

Here's another enthusiastic accolade for Charles Tauber's setup guide.