#16
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His fourth! I'll record a video or 2 on it in the next couple of days and post links.
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John |
#17
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I used TruOil over a ZPoxy pore fill on several necks a long while back. They all got fuzzy after a few months and you could smooth them but the fuzz would come back until the neck was sanded back to bare wood.
Consensus was the amines in the Z-Poxy were the culprit. I refinished the necks with Tru-Oil alone after sanding to 600G and all was well. This may be unique to Z-Poxy. Sounds like some of you have used it over epoxy with no problems. |
#18
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Quote:
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Chad Gillander Oneida, NY www.gillanderguitars.com Instagram: @gillanderguitars www.instagram.com/gillanderguitars Facebook: Gillander Guitars. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...ibextid=LQQJ4d |
#19
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It was probably 15 years ago but I recall others on a luthiers forum having the same issue with Z-Poxy fill on necks finished with TruOil.
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#20
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Good to know. Maybe a formula change? I wonder if anyone figured it out. I know there is also an issue if you don’t wipe down the epoxy surface with a damp cloth prior to starting to apply the truoil. After the epoxy cures, there is a water soluble film that can cause issues if not removed.
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Chad Gillander Oneida, NY www.gillanderguitars.com Instagram: @gillanderguitars www.instagram.com/gillanderguitars Facebook: Gillander Guitars. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...ibextid=LQQJ4d |
#21
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That could be it. Thanks!
I found this thread from back in 2010 about ZPoxy and “amine blush”. That was around the time I noticed it. http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?t=2303 Maybe the wipe down did the trick. Good to know. TruOil is a great neck finish. |
#22
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GluBoost Filland Finish worked very well for me under tru-oil(as opposed to epoxy). It’s a slightly flexible CA material that can be tinted and of course, accelerated.
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”Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet” |
#23
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Tru-Oil, Z-poxy, and shellac
Tru-Oil can look lovely if well applied but that takes a level of skill, especially on the soundboard where softwoods have a tendency to look uneven. It’s also not as durable as the more common factory finishes.
I see parallels with French-polished shellac. It’s challenging to get a good finish, but the end result can look lovely. Again shellac isn’t so durable but I suspect much of this is down to how thin the final finish is. And thinness is a significant factor in keeping an instrument responsive. Lastly, both oil and shellac require no specialist equipment or extraction, making application a much more pleasant task. Both of these finishes are relatively easy to repair. The fuzzy Z-Poxy And Tru-Oil combination is interesting, I’ve in,y used Z-Poxy once as a pore filler under shellac. It looked good until a few months down the line the finish developed tiny bubbles that were rough to the feel, requiring sanding right back and re-polishing. If you like the instrument, don’t let the finish put you off. |
#24
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Quote:
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John |
#25
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I finished a Martin D Jr using the product. It turned out quite nice and no discernible effect on tone. I did thin each coat, about 15 total.
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Don't chase tone. Make tone. |
#26
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Sounding good, John! Nice to see it in action.
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Chad Gillander Oneida, NY www.gillanderguitars.com Instagram: @gillanderguitars www.instagram.com/gillanderguitars Facebook: Gillander Guitars. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php...ibextid=LQQJ4d |