Sexauer/'16

[Bruce Sexauer]

Here the inside of the back, joined and scraped:

[BenjaminPaldacci]

Stuning project Bruce! Thanks for sharing!

[printer2]

Had a bike stolen in 1990 and replaced it with one from Specialized. Lot of hard miles on the bike and other than general maintenance and replacing brake pads no trouble till the shifter gave out a couple of years ago. They make good bikes.

[Bruce Sexauer]

Here's a little insight in my process:

[Bruce Sexauer]

Here's the state of Brad's 0 today.

The next step is shaping the sides to receive the back:


Nice grain match at what will be the graft:

[clinchriver]

Very nice wood and work, the bridge plate appears to be skewed towards the bass side... multi scale?

[Bruce Sexauer]

Originally Posted by clinchriver

Very nice wood and work, the bridge plate appears to be skewed towards the bass side... multi scale?

The only brace that isn't skewed is the "Tongue Depressor" brace. Yes, this is an FT-0-JB, which means; Flat Top 13.5" wide symmetrical body MultiScale w/12 frets to the body. When you consider that all that information is actually specified by the model name, it isn't really all that cumbersome a system!

[LouieAtienza]

That back and side wood are really nice. On your sound board, do you dome them or do you keep them flat?

[Bruce Sexauer]

My top dish is variable. This one is about 3/64" in 13.5", not that I actually measured it, or even could. My upper transverse brace has more arch than the belly braces, which I mention because I have noticed that many makers say they do the opposite, which surprises me.

[Joel Teel]

Bruce...
These appear, to my eye, to be individual blocks instead of strips that you've used for the lining. I suppose that this is more time consuming...but might actually produce more stability through removing any stresses which are introduced through bending kerfed lining strips. I'm always trying to learn through observation, and I haven't yet seen this discussed on the forum. Please let me know if I'm wrong in understanding what I'm looking at.

Joel

[QUOTE=Bruce Sexauer;4897181]Here's the state of Brad's 0 today.

The next step is shaping the sides to receive the back:

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by Wood Knot

These appear, to my eye, to be individual blocks instead of strips that you've used for the lining. I suppose that this is more time consuming...but might actually produce more stability through removing any stresses which are introduced through bending kerfed lining strips. I'm always trying to learn through observation, and I haven't yet seen this discussed on the forum. Please let me know if I'm wrong in understanding what I'm looking at.

I believe because Bruce uses a "dished" workboard, or "solara", the variable radius would require these peones or tentellones to be fitted individually...

[iim7V7IM7]

Originally Posted by LouieAtienza

I believe because Bruce uses a "dished" workboard, or "solara", the variable radius would require these peones or tentellones to be fitted individually...

Interestingly, Bruce's top peone linings are spruce and his back linings are kerfed cedar...

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by iim7V7IM7

Interestingly, Bruce's top peone linings are spruce and his back linings are kerfed cedar...

But on the back, the radius is constant, and linings there are sanded to whatever radius used. The linings do comply to the curvature, due to the kerfs.

On the top, as I assume, since the radius changes within different regions, it would be difficult to fit linings as such and have positive contact on both faces of the peone. Also I cannot imagine how difficult it would be to clamp back to guitar, and install peone through the soundhole!

[Bruce Sexauer]

The radius change implied by a difference or 1 or 2 64th" in depth of chord is something like the difference between 35' and 40', probably half that, or less. Expressed as the angle between the side and the plate, it is probably something like a tenth of a degree, say 90.4 vs 90.5. What I actually do is make my peone with an angle of 91 degrees, which insures that they make actual contact with the top at the point furthest from the side. This is enough for me as I am going to cut a binding ledge which will remove the inside corner of the block in any case, and I am going to glue in binding/purfling which will back up the peone connection nicely.

I made most of those numbers up as I have never calculated it, but it's close enough for guitar making, we're talking about wood here, not steel!

If that makes sense in one reading, you probably have talent for this.

[Bruce Sexauer]

I suppose that last post was too much for many, so here's the one you may like more.

I will close this up today, most likely: