#1
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Replacing saddle
I need to replace the saddle on my classical guitar. I have the replacement, which just needs the height adjusting. If I want to take the action down 1mm at the 12th fret, is it correct that I need to shave 2mm off the saddle? Also (and this might be a silly question), if I want the sixth string 1mm higher than the first, do I make sure the saddle is 1 or 2mm higher at the bass string end (I have no idea why that might be the case, but you never know)?
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"Discovery is as much a productive activity as creation." - David Friedman |
#2
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I think the correct term is the "bone". The bone sits in the slot of the saddle. Anyway, you need to stick a nail file or sprak plug gapping tool or something thin into the gap, make a mark, and measure it. Be precise. None of us can tell you the depth of your slot. They vary.
Yes, sure, you can make the 6th string sit higher by angling it. (Lower toward the 1st string.) It will have to be graduated though, otherwise it won't sit solidly in the slot. Also, there is some trial and error involved. Don't lower it all the way at first. Lower it a bit and then lower again if necessary. Personally, I would take it to a pro. Every small guitar shop has a tech who does this kind of stuff 8 hours a day. Even guitar center has techs.
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"All of humanity's problems stem from man's inability to sit quietly in a room alone. ... with a Martin." ~ Pascal, paraphrased. Yamaha FG-150 steel string Martin OM-35 Martin HD-35 Raimondo 3/4 Classical Hirade Classical Traphagen Classical Gitane Grande Bouche Last edited by Le Chef; 02-23-2020 at 09:43 AM. |
#3
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I have done a few setups on my guitars. My adjustments are in this order
1. Neck relief. - I take out most of the relief. You need a metal straight edge that goes from the 1st fret to past the 12th fret at least to check it. 2. Nut - this has to be done very carefully. If you go too low you either have to patch the nut or put in a new one. There's lots of videos on youtube. 3. Saddle. The bottom has to been sanded evenly. Also, this is the easiest thing to adjust and correct which is why many just adjust the saddle and ignore 1 and 2. When I got my Cordoba, the neck relief was crazy. I did about 3 1/4" turns to correct it. Everything else was fine. Long story short, your saddle could be fine, it could be the other two points that need addressing.
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#4
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Quote:
It is important that the replacement saddle fit the saddle slot well: it should be a light press fit. If too loose, the saddle will lean on the front edge of the saddle slot potentially cracking the front edge of the bridge as well as compromising intonation. Quote:
A linear change in height can be achieved by removing material from the bottom of the saddle. Individual string heights can be achieved by removing material selectively from the top of the saddle. Where the string breaks overs the saddle influences the intonation of the instrument. Even with the new saddle, you might want/need to adjust where the strings break over the saddle. If you adjust string height from the top of the saddle, for intonation purposes, you'll likely need to reestablish where each string breaks over the saddle. |
#5
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Many thanks for the replies. I tried it, botched it (ah well, was worth a try), and have just called a luthier...
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"Discovery is as much a productive activity as creation." - David Friedman |
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Tags |
action, adjustment, classical, height, saddle |
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