#16
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Ahhh... that helps, thank you.
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"What have I learned but the proper use for several tools" -Gary Snyder Bourgeois DR-A / Bowerman "Working Man's" OM / Martin Custom D-18 (adi & flame) / Martin OM-21 / Northwood M70 MJ / 1970s Sigma DR-7 / Eastman E6D / Flatiron Signature A5 / Silverangel Econo A (Call me Dan) |
#17
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someone mentioned Trevor Gore. I'll look his book up. I've heard him referred to a lot by other people. I'm interested in hearing as many opinions on the subject as possible. And ultimately I know experience is the best teacher, so it may be a bit slower learning curve for me due to the fact that its a hobby. thanks again. |
#18
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Then there is the issue of subjective opinion versus objective evidence... The large gaps in what is actually known about guitar making are filled with unsubstantiated opinion ("belief") that "you do this" and "you get that result". |
#19
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"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#20
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#21
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In addition to all this fine advice you may consider thinning the top around the perimeter of the lower bout to loosen it up a bit. Classical guitar makers have done this for many years and some steel string makers do now too. Typically youthin from an imaginary line parallel the bridge and just above it drawn to the edge of the lower bout all way round to the other side about 2inces thick
Do it before binding the instrument so that you can measure it and keep an eye on it. Tap and listen as you go. I always do it with a closed sound box. |