Sharing pics of new Archtop, please share YOURS!!

[rforman15]

Originally Posted by eatswodo

Stewart Macdonald has a gizmo which will help you get the bridge back in the right place. Check it out here:

http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/..._bridgefitting

I had to shift the bridge slightly on my 5th Avenue when I first got it, and again when I changed the OEM strings for something a tad heavier. The bridge was easy enough to move under string tension, and I was able to get it in place by ear without too much difficulty, and then use a tuner to fine-tune the placement. The StewMac tool would help you do this repeatedly - it's up to you to decide whether it's worth the price (which is not a whole lot more than that of a decent tuner).

excellent suggestion, i think I'll get the Stew Mac device.

[Sabluka]

rforman,

You prob don't need that tool.

1. Measure from the face of the nut to the center of the 12th fret.

2. Then measure from the center of the 12th fret, the same distance you just measured, to where the center of the bridge goes. This will be the approx place for the bridge.

3. Move the base side maybe 1/8" farther.

4. Put on strings, tune up and then use a good electronic tuner to check intonation.

6. If the string is sharp, move the bridge back. If the spring is flat move the bridge forward.

Caveat: If, after you get it set you can slide a feeler gauge all the way under it, like say .003", then you may need to get that tool which will allow you to sand the bottom of the bridge to meet the EXACT contour of the top.
OW, your done.

There is a 3 page write up in the book I mentioned with pictures of Erlewine doing this. If you want, pm me a number and I can fax those 3 pages to you.
No biggie.

Let us know how it goes and good luck with it.

[Charlie Ayers]

Here's a '98 Holst archtop. I agree he's a great luthier, and excellent to work with. Hi Larry.



Charlie

[Charlie Ayers]

Another try......

[Howard Klepper]

Originally Posted by rforman15

I think I suggested that it's more complicated than I expessed?

I love paradoxes.

[bishopdm]

Here I am with one of my favorite archtops: 1938 Epiphone Emperor.
[IMG][/IMG]

[blue-wily-fox]

Charlie Ayers, your pics didn't come through on my end....would love to see it...


Bishop, what is the nut width on that Emperor of yours???? Thanks

[drive-south]

Originally Posted by rforman15

thanks Rick, I will check out the Guitar Repair Guide, my guitar doesn't need repaired and the bridge is perfectly flush with the top, rather since the bridge is movable, how do I know when I have moved it into the right spot, answer is you know when it's in tune, but how is this accomplished. It is quite tricky to tune, and tighten the strings, and loosen the strings to retune, and keep on tweaking until the bridge is in exactly the right spot and at the right height, there must be some sure fire process for doing this?

Once you go through this process and find the sweet spot where the bridge needs to stay, you can mark the footprint of the bridge by ligthly scratching the lacquer with a razor knife. The original owner of my ES175 did so and it makes it very easy to locate the bridge after a string change. The scratches are very light and do not go all the way through the lacquer. There is a mark along the front edge of the bridge and 2 small marks to locate the front corners of the bridge as well. Takes the guesswork and time out of trying to place the bridge.

[Sabluka]

drive-south.

If it hasn't been moved from orig position, it's prob pretty close.

Before you do anything, get an electronic tuner and check the intonation. If its a straight bridge then check the bass E and the high E. If it's a bridge where you can adjust each string, then you can do all the strings.

Once you know its sharp or flat then you can adjust accordingly. But before you do adjust it, get some painters tape(not masking tape) and tape alongside the bridge(tape runs perp to bridge) and mark where it is NOW. No need to put marks on the finish.

If you DO have to adjust it then it'll be by trial and error till ya get it right with the bass side being farther away from the 12th fret then the high E string.

After you do adjust it, then carefully measure the dist from the 12th fret to the center of the bridge on the low E and the high E and record that for future reference.

Here's some great sites that may help:

http://www.expertvillage.com/video/5...ric-guitar.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_2211089_adju...ic-guitar.html

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html#Luthier

Here's something I found on the net for ya. Hope all this helps.

STEPS

1. Choose a string, and play the 12th fret harmonic. Using the tuner,
bring this harmonic into tune. Get it absolutely as close as you can.
Remember, when tuning down, always tune down PAST the correct pitch
and then bring the note UP to the correct tune.

2. Now, with an eye on the tuner, fret the string at the 12th fret and
play it again. It is important that you do not bend the string slightly
to either side as you press it to the fingerboard. Try not to apply any
more pressure to the string than is necessary for a clean tone.

3. If the tuner shows that this fretted note is perfectly in tune, then
the note is equal in pitch to the 12th fret harmonic, thus -- correct
intonation! Move on to the next string.

4. If the tuner shows the note to be sharp (that is, the pitch is too
high), it means that the string is too short. Correct this by turning
the screw in the corresponding saddle CLOCKWISE. Over time, you will
get a feel for the right amount to turn the screw each time, but there
is always a large amount of trial-and-error. Start off with a quarter
turn, and see what that does. In any case, START AGAIN FROM STEP 1.

5. If, however, the fretted note is slightly flat (that is, the pitch is
too low), the string is too long and you should turn the screw COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE. Again, try a quarter turn for starters until you get the
feel for it. GO BACK TO STEP 1, and continue until the harmonic and
fretted note are both perfectly in tune.

WARNING: You CANNOT simply tune the harmonic, then turn the screw until
the fretted note is in tune. Moving the saddle changes the tune of the
string, so you must tune the harmonic all over again before trying the
fret again.

6. When you have finished all six strings, check out the result! Make
sure you are in tune first, of course, then play a few chords up and
down the neck (especially "up" the neck). If you have followed the
procedure correctly, the problem (if there was one) should be taken care
of. If it is still not alright, then it could be that __________.
(I have no idea what it could be. Someone help me out here, ok?)


That's all there is to it! At least, ummm, as far as I know! If you
suspect that your intonation needs a lot of adjustment, don't be surprised
if the whole process takes almost an hour. If you are just doing a regular
check, though, I would be surprised if it took more than ten minutes.
Experiment and let me know any helpful hints you discover!

[Charlie Ayers]

I can't seem to get my pics to post; here is a link to some:

http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/570058138CPXzhR

Charlie

[Livingston]

Charlie,

Wow, gorgeous axe! Thanks for the link to the photos.

Darryl

[blue-wily-fox]

charlie....very nice......very

[Charlie Ayers]

Thanks gents; I'm the original owner, and quite fond of it. It doesn't get as much play as it might, as I also play a flattop and some Sel/Macs.

Charlie

[bishopdm]

Originally Posted by blue-wily-fox

Charlie Ayers, your pics didn't come through on my end....would love to see it...


Bishop, what is the nut width on that Emperor of yours???? Thanks

The nut width is 1 and 11/16 inches.

[blue-wily-fox]

Thanks Bishop......I"ve seen some of those oldies Epi's with either the fat 1 3/4" nuts, or down to 1 1/2" so they were all over the map.....