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  #31  
Old 03-18-2020, 10:42 AM
FLRon FLRon is offline
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Really sorry this happened. As you now know, wood doesn’t respond well when you don’t use a pilot hole before tightening a screw in wood. I’m sure this is an easy fix for a competition repair tech.
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  #32  
Old 03-18-2020, 10:49 AM
Big Band Guitar Big Band Guitar is offline
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From my many years of woodworking and functional / restoration of furniture.

Proper size pilot holes keep wood from splitting.
Beeswax keeps the screw from breaking and makes driving easier. Also helps preserve the screw head.

Both are essential for wood screws.

If these recommendations are ignored you might as well drive in a nail.
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  #33  
Old 03-18-2020, 11:13 AM
Howard Emerson Howard Emerson is offline
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It’s very fixable, so don’t worry too much. I can’t help you with the feeling of embarrassment, but I know just how you felt/feel.

Meanwhile....For anyone ever attempting this sort of thing you should, first and foremost, drill a hole in a scrap of hardwood to test the screw resistance.

Do it with NO wax, soap, etc. The wrong size hole will be screaming at you, and any lubricant will only give a false sense of security.

The threads should show adequate purchase in the scrap hole you’ve drilled.

THEN you can drill the heel and grease the hardware for easy going.

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  #34  
Old 03-18-2020, 11:20 AM
vintage40s vintage40s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Emerson View Post
It’s very fixable...
Mainly because it's in compression. A luthier will spread it to glue it and it be stronger than new.
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  #35  
Old 03-18-2020, 11:33 AM
John Arnold John Arnold is offline
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Quote:
I struggled to install a Schallers on my taylor as well. it broke off in the heel and luckily I guess before it went deep enough to split it- remarkable that it cracked against the grain on yours.
This cracked with the grain. The primary cleavage plane in wood is perpendicular to the growth rings. The custom of using vertical grain wood for necks is a contributing factor. A slab cut neck is less likely to fail in this manner. A common misconception is that vertical grain hardwoods are stiffer or make a more stable neck. Not true.

I always drill a pilot hole that is slightly larger than the root diameter of the screw threads.
Poor quality metal cannot be discounted as a factor in broken screws. Using wax or soap helps ensure that the screw does not break....it is no insurance against a cracked heel. If anything, lubricating only gives a false sense about how much force you are putting on the heel while driving the screw.
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  #36  
Old 03-18-2020, 12:24 PM
Goat Mick Goat Mick is offline
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For this reason, I always install strap locks with the same screws that held the strap button on.
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  #37  
Old 03-18-2020, 12:43 PM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage40s View Post
Mainly because it's in compression.
It is in tension.

The cantilevered neck is subject to a force that attempts to bend the neck. This puts tension along the back of the neck and compression along the fingerboard.

The string force, if it has any practical relevance to the split, will attempt to pull the split apart, not push it together. That is evidenced by the split opening, rather than closing on its own.
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  #38  
Old 03-18-2020, 04:04 PM
Dan of SC Dan of SC is offline
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I would take the strings off. Open the crack as much as you dare. Use a syringe to force in Titebond in as deep as you can. With the guitar face down, supported at the top of the neck and bottom of the body, using some sort of padding for protection. Now put another padding over the heel/headblock area and put some kind of weights on it, a little at a time just until you get good squeeze out, no more.
This is easy for me to say, I have nothing to lose. Kinda like planning a bank robbery just for fun.
Good luck!
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  #39  
Old 03-18-2020, 05:35 PM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Do not just squeeze glue in, remove the neck or have it removed, its two bolts and one allen headed screw, have repaired many of these, its not a hard fix, but....

Repair process - Neck is unbolted and removed, the two halves of the neck cleaned and re-glued with titebond and a simple clamp, then some finish work if you want, Re-attach neck job finished.

This photo is just one from my collection for reference, the screw in the photo was someones way of repairing the break



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Last edited by mirwa; 03-19-2020 at 03:02 AM.
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  #40  
Old 03-18-2020, 05:44 PM
jdto jdto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goat Mick View Post
For this reason, I always install strap locks with the same screws that held the strap button on.
The new Schaller S-Locks are one piece, so that isn’t an option. I have a few sets on my electrics and the screws are also slightly larger than standard, so it is worth drilling and using lubricant to ensure they don’t split anything. That said, I didn’t drill on my Tele or Strat and they went in just fine. On my Gretsch I had to drill the hole out to size. The new design is really nice with the grub screw to keep it from coming apart.
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  #41  
Old 03-18-2020, 07:42 PM
Dwight Dwight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesBelly View Post
NO! NOT Cosmetic.
Force wood glue, Titebond, or Elmers wood glue, or similar, into the crack while it is open as is in the photos. Then Remove the screw And loosen the strings all the way and the wood should come back together. Wipe off the excess Glue with a damp rag. Clamp or hold the joint tightly for a couple of hours minimum. Do not play for 24 hours. If done correctly the glue will hold tightly.
If you reinstall the strap lock, drill first
FWIW I am a master woodworker, a finish carpenter, and a guitar tech.
If your not comfortable doing this repair yourself, seek help.
Good Luck

Blues
Good answer, in the OP's case he should probably have someone else do it just like that.
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  #42  
Old 03-18-2020, 08:18 PM
nitram nitram is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Band Guitar View Post
I second that. the above repair is what I would do.

That's what you get when you don't drill the proper size piolet hole.
I know you didn't mean it but a "piolet" is a two-headed ice axe.If this weren't so sad, that would be funny.
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  #43  
Old 03-19-2020, 07:27 AM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
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Default A thought

Advice seems to be worth what we pay for it. Any advice on this topic that suggests forcing glue into the crack from the outside is dead wrong. As Mirwa has stated, the Taylor's neck bolts on and off very easily and a repair tech can do a solid and thorough repair in a few minutes. Please, no well-meant but incorrect shortcuts.
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  #44  
Old 03-19-2020, 08:40 AM
Dan of SC Dan of SC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirwa View Post
Do not just squeeze glue in, remove the neck or have it removed, its two bolts and one allen headed screw, have repaired many of these, its not a hard fix, but....

Repair process - Neck is unbolted and removed, the two halves of the neck cleaned and re-glued with titebond and a simple clamp, then some finish work if you want, Re-attach neck job finished.

This photo is just one from my collection for reference, the screw in the photo was someones way of repairing the break



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  #45  
Old 03-19-2020, 01:20 PM
Big Band Guitar Big Band Guitar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitram View Post
I know you didn't mean it but a "piolet" is a two-headed ice axe.If this weren't so sad, that would be funny.
Darn that auto correct
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