Bridge shaving

Hurricane Bob · #1 03-27-2016, 03:28 PM

Started sanding the top of the bridge of my HD-28 copy to finally address high action of 5/32 inch at the 12th fret. First I sanded the saddle down as far as possible, truss rod is not adjustable. I just noticed that the bridge itself is a lot higher on the bass side than the treble side. Is this normal? Should I even it out sanding? The action now at the bass side is 4/32 shooting for 3/32 inch. pics coming---Happy Easter

Larry Pattis · #2 03-27-2016, 03:39 PM

Is the guitar not worth a neck reset?

zoopeda · #3 03-27-2016, 03:51 PM

How high is the saddle at each E string now? I.e. At the saddle

SFCRetired · #4 03-27-2016, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hurricane Bob

Started sanding the top of the bridge of my HD-28 copy to finally address high action of 5/32 inch at the 12th fret. First I sanded the saddle down as far as possible, truss rod is not adjustable. I just noticed that the bridge itself is a lot higher on the bass side than the treble side. Is this normal? Should I even it out sanding? The action now at the bass side is 4/32 shooting for 3/32 inch. pics coming---Happy Easter

Go to frets.com and he will tell you what height the strings should be. I understand why someone would do this on some guitars. I have a guitar that has a very lower saddle. it's okay now but if it ever worsened I would just sand down the bridge until I had to throw the guitar away. But I'm either going to sell it really cheap or donate it to someone who can't afford to buy a guitar now to learn on. Most likely the latter. It plays fine for now and has been this way for a long time.

Hot Vibrato · #5 03-27-2016, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hurricane Bob

Started sanding the top of the bridge of my HD-28 copy to finally address high action of 5/32 inch at the 12th fret. First I sanded the saddle down as far as possible, truss rod is not adjustable. I just noticed that the bridge itself is a lot higher on the bass side than the treble side. Is this normal? Should I even it out sanding? The action now at the bass side is 4/32 shooting for 3/32 inch. pics coming---Happy Easter

Yes. It's normal for the bridge to be taller on the bass side.

However, unless it's a cheap guitar, I would recommend not sanding the bridge down. For a good guitar, it's a bad idea. The proper way of correcting high action in a case like yours it to have a neck reset done by a qualified luthier. (BEWARE! Most "luthiers" are NOT qualified!).

A neck reset entails removing the neck by forcing the dovetail joint loose with heat, steam, and pressure. The heel and dovetail are then carefully shaped and shimmed to allow for proper action, with plenty of saddle sticking up out of the bridge to allow for future adjustment. Usually by the time a guitar is ready for a neck reset, it's also due for a refret. And if someone has shaved the bridge down, the bridge will need to be replaced as well. This is why it's a bad idea to shave the bridge down. The reset and frets will set you back almost $1000. A new bridge will add another $300 or so to the bill.

As you can imagine, with all of that heat and steam, and the woodworking on the finished heel, there's plenty of potential for finish damage. A good luthier should be able to make it look as good or better than a factory job, and in my opinion, if they can't , then they have no business attempting the process on an expensive guitar. Unfortunately, luthiers who are capable of working to the appropriate level of precision are rare, so do your research before trusting someone with your guitar. Good luck!

Russ C · #6 03-27-2016, 04:08 PM

If your guitar is not worth the cost of a neck reset you have limited options - as you already know.
There are heat treatments that may help if your neck relief is the problem, otherwise shaving your bridge is all I can suggest. You must leave sufficient depth in it for your saddle to stay upright or it's all over, literally.
It's a much disrespected repair and you may just be temporarily prolonging the life of a guitar that will continue to move, but then you haven't lost much - or spent anything.

Brucebubs · #7 03-27-2016, 04:09 PM

I did some creative 'sculpting' on the bridge of my $50 kit guitar using a sanding attachment on a Dremel.
Worked well but I would never try it on anything valuable.

PTC Bernie · #8 03-27-2016, 04:10 PM

Shaving the bridge is always a stopgap measure. Whether its because the guitar isn't worth the cost of a reset or the owner just wants to get a couple more years out of it, it's still a band aid approach.

Some guitars handle it better than other. 70's Guilds usually have very thick bridges and you can get away with shaving and still have a decent amount of bridge left. Other guitars, not so much.

The bottom line is that the neck is moving and that eventaually needs to be dealt with.

Hurricane Bob · #9 03-27-2016, 04:28 PM

The saddle on the bass side is flush to the bridge, the treble side looks good.
The bridge is huge and has a lot of room to sand. Its a locally built guitar I have owned and gigged with since 1997 called a LACH. Bought new for $450.00, ebony fingerboard, solid rosewood back and sides, spruce top, Gotoh tuners, Fishman pickup.

stringjunky · #10 03-27-2016, 04:46 PM

Expect it to sound more subdued and not as loud as before. I tried it and that's what happened. It got a bit more playing life out of it though.

Hurricane Bob · #11 03-27-2016, 04:56 PM

Here is what she looks like right now after sanding--a definite improvement in play-ability, tempted to continue...

fhubert · #12 03-27-2016, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hurricane Bob

Here is what she looks like right now after sanding--a definite improvement in play-ability, tempted to continue...

It looks like the saddle is in wrong. Should be the other way around. Could just be my eyes!!!! You also have no break angle on some of those strings.

SFCRetired · #13 03-27-2016, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fhubert

It looks like the saddle is in wrong. Should be the other way around. Could just be my eyes!!!! You also have no break angle on some of those strings.

That's what I'm seeing as well

Waxer · #14 03-27-2016, 10:52 PM

I say sand that bridge until it is even thickness. Than use a dremel tool and put in some string ramps in the bridge pin holes to increase the string angle to the saddle. What's the risk? If it it fails and you get a neck reset they can remove the bridge and replace it same time.

zabdart · #15 03-28-2016, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Pattis

Is the guitar not worth a neck reset?

Yeah -- that's something you should have looked into first. Now, you not only need a neck reset, plus a fret job but bridge work as well to undo all the damage that you did with your amateur repair. If you're going to spend that much money, you may think about buying another guitar.