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#121
12-26-2018, 09:39 AM
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That purfling/binding combo is intriguing ... I think I'm going to love that!
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David Wren 
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#122
12-27-2018, 07:33 AM
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#123
12-27-2018, 08:39 AM
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First I'm applying a bead of glue to the binding and purfling channels:
 Mary sure is a great help when it comes to binding, which BTW is one of my least favorite parts of the building process. There is simply NO room for error and NO way to mask mistakes if one doesn't do a perfect job of applying the bindings and purflings. Its a very stressful time for me but her helping hands and calming voice are heaven sent.  Mary hands me tape at just the right pace.  Here is a tip that may be helpful to other builders? When you pull the tape too tight, the tape oftentimes breaks at the most inopportune time. Here you can see me pushing the binding in tight against the body, using the plastic handle of an old screwdriver, with the end cut off for safety. I stick one end of the tape down to the sides, push the binding tight against the side with the plastic handle, then pull a little tension on the other end of the tape and stick it down to the top or back, USUALLY before the tape breaks. The screwdriver is doing most of the clamping work instead of pulling too hard on the tape. I've found that I break a lot less tape using this method and it speeds my binding process up quite a bit. I should mention that this is a two part process for us. I first tack the binding down by sticking the tape first to the top or back and then pull down on the tape to pull the bindings tight into the lower ledge of the binding channel. I do this about every 3" along the length of the binding. Once I reach the other end of the binding I go back to the start and put tape between the 3" spaces but this time I stick the tape first to the sides and pull the bindings inward using the screwdriver handle method mentioned above. This assures a nice tight fit everywhere.  The last step is to clamp the ends and waist. Flat wood cauls are used on the ends. Contoured cauls are used on the waist which fit the waist precisely. The waist is one of the more difficult areas to fit bindings and if there are any gaps this is one of the areas that will give a builder fits. Clamping these areas securely after applying tape will add another layer of safeguarding to assure a precise and gap free fit.  Some builders prefer to use the rope method to secure bindings while waiting for the glue to dry. I have tried the rope method but I usually end up with a tangled mess and a huge ball of string that bounces everywhere. There are other methods to apply purflings and bindings; using scalpel blades, tape and Super Glue. There are many different paper, and plastic tapes to choose from as well. In the end its choosing what method one has the most confidence in using and I'm certainly not saying my method is the best but just another path to the finish line.
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#124
12-27-2018, 09:03 AM
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Thanks, Tim. I’m making a mental note of it. I’m terrible with losing things though - though it’s been awhile since I lost my mind.
__________________
(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023)
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#125
12-28-2018, 06:41 AM
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#126
12-29-2018, 08:11 AM
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Scraping the purfs and bindings flush to the back and top:
   Then scraping the bindings flush with the sides:  
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#128
12-29-2018, 12:38 PM
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Love that marquetry you used on the back ... I'm working on a little 00 with that on the top and around the peghead right now ... and that Cocobolo ... wow!
__________________
David Wren
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#129
12-29-2018, 03:07 PM
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#130
12-29-2018, 03:18 PM
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Looking GREAT
Super pretty! Way to go!!!
Not sure how you Fine Luthiers do this all but very glad you do... Have a wonderful New Years Paul
__________________
3 John Kinnaird SS 12c CUSTOMS: Big Maple/Cedar Dread Jumbo Spanish Cedar/WRC Jumbo OLD Brazilian RW/WRC R.T 2 12c sinker RW/Claro 96 422ce bought new! 96 LKSM 12 552ce 12x12 J. Stepick Bari Weissy WRC/Walnut More
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#131
12-29-2018, 04:39 PM
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In your post #31 you show your deflection jig - a support at either end and a weight in the middle. I assume you measure how much the plate bends in the middle. My question is, how do you calibrate this? what is the standard"perfect" plate to compare to?
I have wanted to make something like this but wouldn't know what to do with it once I did. Ed
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#132
12-29-2018, 05:54 PM
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#133
12-29-2018, 06:05 PM
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Your assumption is correct and my deflection jig does measure the amount of the top or back bending under a given weight. When I studied with Ervin, I was sent home with two tops that are my standards to what I gauge my tops to today. The best advice i could give you is to build a jig, use the same weight and keep accurate records. You will have to build several guitars with various amounts of deflection to find what standard works best for your building style. Or you could sign up for a class to study with Ervin and shave YEARS off your learning curve. He revolutionized the way that I approach building guitars.
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#134
12-30-2018, 06:08 AM
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A little last minute surgery
  Nope, its not big enough yet:  That little hand saw is just not getting it. I need a power tool:  Finally, the hidden mortise I was looking for:  All cleaned up and ready to fit the neck: 
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#135
12-30-2018, 04:31 PM
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Love that photo and of course the work, Tim! That particular part of the build is a bit of an unveiling. It is really satisfying to scrap away the glue and excess wood to reveal nice tight bindings and purflings. Well done!
Ken [QUOTE=Tim McKnight;5932296]Scraping the purfs and bindings flush to the back and top:
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