#1
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Question about Buffered vs True Bypass
I just finished re-boxing my '80's Ibanez AD9 in a nice new Hammond style enclosure (the old box is in several pot metal pieces after being dropped on concrete). I'm about to fit a new switch as the old momentary unit is less than reliable.
I run this pedal last in my chain, almost as a reverb-type effect. The rest of the chain is true bypass, but the AD9 is more or less an 'always on' pedal. Is there any advantage in making the extra effort to make it true bypass, or do I just go with the Carling 110-P spst switch? Cheers for any thoughts/knowledge. |
#2
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Do you notice any difference if you bypass the pedal (physically unplug it and go around it)?
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"You don't have to be great to start, but you have to start to be great." -Zig Ziglar Acoustics 2013 Guild F30 Standard 2012 Yamaha LL16 2007 Seagull S12 1991 Yairi DY 50 Electrics Epiphone Les Paul Standard Fender Am. Standard Telecaster Gibson ES-335 Gibson Firebird |
#3
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+1 on Clint's comment (^).
How long is your overall signal chain from guitar to amp? Include all those little patch cables. Nothing wrong with having a buffer before going to the amp with a long cable run. I think a great test is to try your guitar to the amp, then your guitar through all your effects Except that last pedal, and then again with all the pedals including the last one. Do you notice any difference? Any roll off of the highs? |
#4
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Typically, the full run is only around 20' or less. I don't move too far from my board and the amp is usually 6' or less behind me. I run 5-6 pedals max including a tuner, all true bypass.
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#5
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In theory, the combination of a naked guitar pickup impeadance/inductance, and the input stage of an amplifier will react differently than an OP Amp output will with the same input stage. It's a question of frequency response, signal levels, and so on. There is also the loading and signal transfer from the pickup to the input stage of the active pedal, and you probably don't know what that is on this pedal. So in theory, there will be a difference. In practice, you might not be able to hear or measure the difference, although some claim to be able to tell the difference between cables, battery brands in pedals, and what-not. And just because there might be a difference doesn't mean one is better than the other, to your ears. So if it was me, I'd build it both ways. I'd duplicate the factory switch, and front end that with a true bypass mechanical switch that goes completely around the pedal electronics, then I'd try it. You can obviously jury-rig the true bypass with a cable.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. |
#6
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I'm guessing that the quality of your instrument and patch cables will make more of a difference than true bypass/buffer at that length.
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#7
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OK - thanks all. I found a Carling Momentary switch which will hopefully keep the circuit exactly the same.
I guess the best way to find out is to try it both ways as suggested. |