#16
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An easy way to “get-it” is to take your liquified Humidipaks and put them outside during a 40F rain (100% RH). They will quickly give up their moisture and crystallize. The instructions for Humidipaks calls for a temp of 75F. 50% RH at 75F is a moister environment than 50% RH at 65F because as shown above, the warmer air is capable of holding more moisture.
BTW, once Humidipaks are crystallized (depleted of moisture) they can easily be rehydrated. Just put them in a one gallon zip lock with a piece of moistened sponge and they’ll come back.
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Consensus, by definition, is a lack of leadership. |
#17
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In my 40 +years involved in residential construction in the western 1/2 of the US, from when I started in 1966 to somewhere in the 80's the predominant whole house heating system was forced air electric (prior to that it was mostly oil fired forced air), like the house I grew up in. Baseboard electric also started started coming in especially in lower priced new construction or multi dwelling units or as a retro-fit to older houses Then in the mid to late 80's - 90's , also about the time you also started to see more natural gas forced air and in the more custom or semi custom type upper mid priced homes being built, that started offering radiant floor heating systems as an upgrade option, usually Nat Gas fired.
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#18
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#19
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At 100% RH, regardless of temperature, the air cannot absorb any more moisture. Putting a damp object in that environment, it will not dry or lose moisture - the air can't absorb anymore. Actually, I'd expect the less-moist-than-ambient-air Humidipak should absorb moisture, not lose it, until it is in equilibrium with the moisture level of the ambient air. Quote:
Think of it this way. Start with a 10 oz drinking glass. Fill the glass 1/2 way. It is filled to 50% of its capacity. If you pour that 5 oz of water into a 5 oz drinking glass, the amount (quantity/volume/weight) of water remains the same, but the 5 oz glass is at 100% of its capacity to hold water. Thus, although the quantity of water remains the same, the holding potential of the vessel (glass) changes from 50% to 100% of its capacity. By contrast, if we pour the 5 oz of water from the 5 oz glass, at 100% of its capacity, back into the 10 oz glass, then add more water until the 10 oz glass is entirely full - reached its maximum holding capacity - then the 10 oz glass is 100% of its capacity. What has changed is the amount/quantity of water in the glass. That is analogous to absolute humidity - adding moisture to the air. To put the behaviour shown in the psychometric chart in simple language, if you take air at, say, 40 degrees and 100% RH, representative of outdoor winter air, then heat it, by whatever means you prefer, to 70 degrees - typical of indoor winter temperatures - without adding additional moisture - i.e. without raising the absolute humidity - the relative humidity will plummet (to about 35%). (For colder outdoor temperatures, the amount of drop in RH will be greater.) That is typically what happens in the winter in cold climates - heating outdoor air without adding additional moisture. Note that the absolute humidity (the weight of moisture/weight of air) remains constant, as one traverses the (dry bulb) temperature scale on the chart horizontally. (Dry bulb temperature is what is, for example, read on a typical mercury thermometer.) |
#20
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This is a fun little calculator. Set the temperature to the outside temperature, same with the humidity. Select solve for humidity and raise up the temperature to your room temperature. Watch the humidity drop. Say 0 degrees with 50% RH. Raise the temperature of the air to 72 degrees. The RH drops to 3%.
The dew point is the temperature where the amount of humidity in the air will start to condense. Dew on your car or the ground. Or on the window pane. For a given amount of moisture in the air, it doesn't change whether the temperature of the air goes up or down. As you raise the temperature the RH goes up (the capacity of the air to hold moisture). http://www.dpcalc.org/
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Fred |
#21
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I remember in the Southern California area where I grew up, lots of houses built in the '60s were fully electric, including house heating, water heating, and cooking heat source. Some of the homes had little plaques identifying them as "Concern" homes that used the best fuel--electricity (kinda like LEED homes today). I think this was related to the expected rise of nuclear energy. Some proponents claimed nuclear energy would be "too cheap to meter." I suspect that drove the move to all-electric homes. Anyway, this is a very interesting and informative thread. |