#241
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I will say that the high-end picks made of vespel or casein are justified in their pricing just due to the scarcity and expense of those materials and the difficulty of working the material. But you are right--spending more money does not make you a better player and unfortunately many people are gullible when it comes to the "cost=quality" concept, as if a $5000 guitar is 10 times "better" than a $500 guitar, and so on. Which is, of course, absolute nonsense, and nothing but.
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"A ship in a harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for." - John Shedd |
#242
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My go to for guitar and mandolin. Not to say this won’t ever change but not anytime soon. 90% of the stages I play on are flat black. If I drop one it’s easy to find. |
#243
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Allow to explain. I became obsessed with picks way back in the seventies (I've been playing for over 40 years). I bought my first genuine TS picks around '77-"78, right when they were becoming illegal and, coincidentally, McCabe's was getting rid of their last inventory. I must have read about them from a Tony Rice interview, or something like that. But that wasn't the beginning of my obsession. When I was a kid, Kenner came out with this thing call the Mold Master. I swear to the sweet Lord above, this must have been the motivation for UL Labs and the beginning of the consumer protection movement, right after Nadar's book on the VW bug. This thing was one blown fuse shy of burning down your house. That and the home chemistry kit put a gleam in my eye that now, 50 years later, has yet to be extinguished. Did anyone else have one of these? It looked like this. I won't go into the technicalities, other than to say this thing was about a millimeter away from pyromania. My point is this: Even though I'm an English prof, I was obsessed with plastics from my formative years (although even today I am not fully formed). It must have come from my Science-teacher day. I still remember, more than half a century later, how with a Dr. Jekyll gleam in his eye he once put a glob of potassium into a beaker of water and we had right before us, there on the lab table, a mini Vesuvius. So it's his fault. Moving ahead forty years, I'm a proud member of the Lunatic Fringe Guitar Pick Club. But I would have been anyway -- I already was more than forty years before CLP came to exist -- and I'm helplessly lost. There should be a 12-Step Program for this stuff. Oh well, it's cheaper than GAS. Memmer Last edited by Charmed Life Picks; 01-27-2019 at 02:30 PM. |
#244
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I have a considerable number of real tortoiseshell (hawksbill) picks bought, initially, from trays in music shops before there were laws or realisation of the damage they were doing. Many say that it isn't worth buying expensive picks because they lose them. My answer to that is ..."value perception" and a practical solution..by which I mean ; If you have programmed yourself to regard picks as disposable items, knowing that you have paid a significant about for something special means you "revalue" picks. Practical: It was getting my BC picks that made me think seriously about how I could keep control of them... which was resolved by getting my Princess Mary Boxes (see below) -these are now real antiques and quite expensive but hold a capo, tuner and picks. Too much value to discard ...as are the contents. see: 'Course it doesn't have to be an expensive box but perhaps a tobacco or pastille tin specifically for picks and ... whatever that is always there when you use your guitar and when you put it away ... there's the place for your picks. Pick shapes, material, thickness etc. Shapes: There used to be loads, now there are generally just 351 (teardrops) and 346 (large triangles). Ok.... generally. So, if you haven't tried 346s yet, you owe it to yourself to try 'em. Thickness and material go together, for instance a 1.5 m/m Dunlop Primetone pick (that looks suspiciously like a Blue Chip) is solid, no flex, no resonance whereas the same thickness BC, whilst stiff has just a "tad" of feel. Same with Wegen TF140s. I believe that most start off with lighter picks for strumming, an as their technique becomes more intricate, they move to heavier picks. For a long time I used .73 and .88 m/m teardrops, but found that as hammer-ons and pull-offs became an important part of my style ... AND, I was playing in bluegrass style bands, I took to heavier picks. NOTE: 346 shaped picks have more mass than teardrops. I do play expensive guitars (because they fit me, and make me happy, and so I didn't begrudge, finally admitting that BCs were best on my uncoated PB strings on my guitars. (I don't need coated strings which sound muffled to me anyway). My modifying attempts were on D'andrea and Feder picks which I believe are celluloid which burns easily. And mainly, Dunlop Ultex - good results but hard to work, and Tortex, which was the best result. Both are rough to the touch and n the strings "out of the box" and need polishing after being bevelled. So Dunlop 346 1.14 m/m tortex picks properly beveled and polished make good punchy picks but, not as fast or smooth as BCs. BTW - bevelling makes a world of difference on anything. Last thought, the best pick, strings capo whatever won't make a poor guitar better. That's it, it's late, going to bed now night night all.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#245
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Silly, I just want to say: You've a done a fabulous job here and a great service to our members by providing pick and beveling and other info. I know so many, including me, really appreciate it.
Bravo! Scott Memmer |