Mitchell Guitars: Anyone Re-Topped/Worked One?

[Danley]

Seems like a really stupid question, and sorry if I'm not searching properly to not be finding any info that's out there, but...

Anyone ever pulled apart a Mitchell? You know, the sub-$200 Chinese things at Guitar Center. Any epoxy/surprises/things to know?

I have a twelve string that was left with me, the top is cracked to the point where it's peeling away from the body. It's useless except for me to attempt repair/re-top, and will cost nothing if I fail. I've never done any luthiery before on an acoustic, by the way, but I have an iron and a latte steamer

[bnjp]

Originally Posted by Danley

Seems like a really stupid question, and sorry if I'm not searching properly to not be finding any info that's out there, but...

Anyone ever pulled apart a Mitchell? You know, the sub-$200 Chinese things at Guitar Center. Any epoxy/surprises/things to know?

I have a twelve string that was left with me, the top is cracked to the point where it's peeling away from the body. It's useless except for me to attempt repair/re-top, and will cost nothing if I fail. I've never done any luthiery before on an acoustic, by the way, but I have an iron and a latte steamer

That would be quite a project! Certainly you would learn a lot but I'm not sure what the guitar would be like when you're done. You'll need to preferably remove the neck (I doubt that would come off easy with chinese glue), but you'd learn finishing, bridge work, bracing/voicing, binding, patience, anger management.

[chucksurette]

Originally Posted by Danley

Anyone ever pulled apart a Mitchell? You know, the sub-$200 Chinese things at Guitar Center. Any epoxy/surprises/things to know?

I have a twelve string that was left with me, the top is cracked to the point where it's peeling away from the body. It's useless except for me to attempt repair/re-top, and will cost nothing if I fail. I've never done any luthiery before on an acoustic, by the way, but I have an iron and a latte steamer

Never worked on a Mitchell - but did a reset on a yamaha and those are supposed to be bad to get apart. (It wasn't.)

Please attach pics of your top - so we can see what's going on.

Is the top bound?

[Danley]

As soon as I'm near the guitar again I'll take some pics.

Odd, I have a Yamaha 12 string (FG260) with a bellied top too that needs at least a reset to be put right; I was planning on using this Mitchell as practice for re-doing that guitar.

The top, IIRC, is bound on the Mitchell. The damage consists of what looks to be an against the grain, two inch long folded split (the result of appearing to have been dropped directly onto its lower bout from vertical), and then a maybe six inch long split with the grain up from the center of that. The guitar was left strung, and was apparently somewhat playable for a while after receiving the damage, but eventually worsened.

Shame, these were solid top models

[chucksurette]

Cool - post pics when possible.
Retopping isn't all that hard - just a lot of processes... I'm doing a 1960's Sovereign now and probably my FG 335 later. I've looked at the damaged Yamaha for 20+ years and now is the time to fix it.

[Outhouse]

Originally Posted by Danley

Odd, I have a Yamaha 12 string (FG260) with a bellied top too that needs at least a reset to be put right; I was planning on using this Mitchell as practice for re-doing that guitar.

Just finished a fg260. The thompsons belly reducer really helped, but replacing the bridge plate with the stewmac maple and changing the grain length wise as well as a hair longer really flattened the top back to perfect.

hardest part was removing the bridge plate by hand.

I have pics but im at work and no phone cable. See if I can borrow a buddies. Shame your not back in Sac, im in Auburn and would have rented the belly reducer and C clamps cheap.

[Danley]

Originally Posted by Outhouse

Just finished a fg260. The thompsons belly reducer really helped, but replacing the bridge plate with the stewmac maple and changing the grain length wise as well as a hair longer really flattened the top back to perfect.

hardest part was removing the bridge plate by hand.

I have pics but im at work and no phone cable. See if I can borrow a buddies. Shame your not back in Sac, im in Auburn and would have rented the belly reducer and C clamps cheap.

Great info, thanks. Curious to try my hand at replacing the bridge plate. Wow, I was in Folsom yesterday and the day before, but wasn't checking the internet much (vacationing, visiting family). Bought my Datsun in Auburn, and often fly out of the airport Great place.

It's a white label, Nippon Gakki MIJ with a five digit serial. From what I gather on the internet, that means domestic Japan market (which makes sense, believe my dad bought it there) from 68 - 69 . I've thought it was an '80 or so, for no real reason, so that's cool. Still makes it a cheap guitar. But... Performed some adjustments... Found the truss still works, but is stiff! Took a sliver more meat off the saddle, also broke some strings tuning it back up :P Have nines on order which might improve things.

Action is now about 2.5mm on the low E above the twelfth, and I still have to address the nut (high, pings like crazy). This may yet work without a reset/belly reduction, or might eventually try my hand at one or both of those... Sounds nice as-is, for ply Suppose I could go lower, but only by thinning the bridge itself, the saddle is barely one mm above the plate (with insane ramps for the strings). If I can only pull one mm more off at the bridge end, it may not be worth it.