1980's Goodall - Page 2

Andromeda · #16 10-28-2011, 01:46 PM

If I were you I would grab this guitar!!!!!

mc1 · #17 10-28-2011, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koatay

info : serial number 0478=1993

how did you figure that out?

edit: i'm going to guess now that you search gc's used inventory and found the serial number.

royd · #18 10-28-2011, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koatay

info : serial number 0478=1993

it's no surprise that GC would have the date incorrect and that someone here would know the real year... but the incorrect date doesn't impact the fact that the guitar is worth way more than that.

royd · #19 10-28-2011, 02:19 PM

now with regards to the Taylor... it is a nice guitar at a reasonable price but it is an entirely different class of guitar than the Goodall. For me, there would be no choice at all.

pitner · #20 10-28-2011, 03:12 PM

I have owned two Goodalls and currently have a Royal Hawaiian all Koa. Just amazing guitars and keep you interested from the time you take them out of the case til you put them away. I also have a very nice 42 year old Martin D-18 that the Goodall blows away. I also have a Olson SJ that gets about the same amount of attention as my Goodall. Bottom line; Goodalls rock and for that much money a few hundred to get it setup perfect would be no big deal.

clicktone · #21 10-28-2011, 03:17 PM

Hurry please...

enigma · #22 10-28-2011, 05:16 PM

So, I put a deposit on it for the moment. But, here are the new details:

The neck has a slight bow that could be fixed no problem with a regular set up, BUT the truss rod can't be turned anymore. And, the original saddle can't be sanded anymore as it has gone down as much as it can. So, the guitar will stay as is.

What do you guys think of this issue?

Andromeda · #23 10-28-2011, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enigma

So, I put a deposit on it for the moment. But, here are the new details:

The neck has a slight bow that could be fixed no problem with a regular set up, BUT the truss rod can't be turned anymore. And, the original saddle can't be sanded anymore as it has gone down as much as it can. So, the guitar will stay as is.

What do you guys think of the this issue?

I think a competent Luthier could fix that problem the question is how much would that cost and would it be worth it?

clicktone · #24 10-28-2011, 06:06 PM

Sometimes a qualified Luthier can shave down the Bridge and create a higher saddle. Bill Asher (Asher Guitars) did it for me and it was magic! You could also call James Goodall himself and get his advise, super nice guy to deal with. ...it may be well worth the repair charge.

enigma · #25 10-28-2011, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clicktone

Sometimes a qualified Luthier can shave down the Bridge and create a higher saddle. Bill Asher (Asher Guitars) did it for me and it was magic! You could also call James Goodall himself and get his advise, super nice guy to deal with. ...it may be well worth the repair charge.

I was thinking the same. If anything, I'd love to have James make the repair himself. Wouldn't that be sweet!

ps Great songs btw!

enigma · #26 10-28-2011, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andromeda

how much would that cost?

If it's repairable and James would do it himself, then it would definitely be worth it!!!

Andromeda · #27 10-28-2011, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enigma

If it's repairable and James would do it himself, then it would definitely be worth it!!!

I would agree with that!!

enigma · #28 10-28-2011, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andromeda

I would agree with that!!

But, if this guitar needs a neck re-set then it could get pretty costly.

Does anyone know if Goodalls are dove tail or bolt-on?

darylcrisp · #29 10-28-2011, 08:53 PM

at this point, i would want to have the setup-which may include a neck reset-appraised-and probably by someone with an excellent reputation other than the inhouse GC tech.

reason being-if a neck reset is needed, there is time and i would guess at least a couple hundred involved. i don't know if that neck is bolt on or dovetail-even being bolt on its not going to be as easy and cheap as a taylor.

also, what if the truss rod is frozen-or broken, more repair. then if you have to ship it for repair there is more time and money invested to and from.

i personally would not sand the bridge. the bridge mass is there for a reason and thats not a fix for an improper neck set. all you would be doing is making the guitar worth less-and its 50/50 if it will work to fix the problem and sound good in the end. if you sand the bridge you will need to reslot the saddle area for proper depth-there may not be enough wood to do that and you may end up on or going into the topwood-and by sanding the bridge you may get the bridge so thin it breaks out under tension. i have saw others, and personally sanded bridges down for a few friends-the tone has always suffered. unless its a $300 somethng or less guitar i no longer even consider that option.

if you really like the guitar-just going on what you are saying-i would assume to end up with at least $500-800 more for proper repair and setup-and lost time for the repairs. if its still worth it to you, go for it. keep in mind that may be a totally wrong estimate.

i've been exactly where you are at before. knowing what i now know and what i've been thru in the past, i would put my $ on the taylor.
after you get the guitar checked out, contact goodall with the serial number and the estimated issues, that would give you an idea of cost and such. if you want james to do the work, you might want to ask about time estimates on that also.

keep us posted
d

enigma · #30 10-28-2011, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darylcrisp

at this point, i would want to have the setup-which may include a neck reset-appraised-and probably by someone with an excellent reputation other than the inhouse GC tech.

reason being-if a neck reset is needed, there is time and i would guess at least a couple hundred involved. i don't know if that neck is bolt on or dovetail-even being bolt on its not going to be as easy and cheap as a taylor.

also, what if the truss rod is frozen-or broken, more repair. then if you have to ship it for repair there is more time and money invested to and from.

i personally would not sand the bridge. the bridge mass is there for a reason and thats not a fix for an improper neck set. all you would be doing is making the guitar worth less-and its 50/50 if it will work to fix the problem and sound good in the end. if you sand the bridge you will need to reroute the saddle slot for proper depth-there may not be enough wood to do that and you may end up on or going into the topwood-and by sanding the bridge you may get the slot so thin it breaks out under tension.

if you really like the guitar-just going on what you are saying-i would assume i would end up with at least $500-800 more for proper repair and setup-and lost time for the repairs. if its still worth it to you, go for it.

i've been exactly where you are at before. knowing what i now know and what i've been thru in the past, i would put my $ on the taylor.

keep us posted
d

Thanks for your thoughts! I'm seriously considering negotiating the price down to include a full neck reset done by a reputable luthier because the tone is that good. The GM at this particular GC is really reasonable, but we'll see.

Thanks again for all of your thoughts and good advice!