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#16
11-19-2021, 12:05 PM
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I never read anywhere if simply fretting the low strings at the third fret makes them sharp? People tend to remember that too high nut action makes the first couple of frets sharpish, but tends to forget that not compensating the nut towards the first fret a wee tad has the same effect. If you put the leading edge of the nut exacly where theory says it should be, you can end up with the first couple of frets being a little sharp, since there is zero tension compensation for the nut, but a little tension compensation needed for the first fret, and on up to the rest of the neck. I put the nut around .010" - .015" closer to the first fret than Rule of 18 suggests (yes, 17.whatever is the actual rule) simply by cutting a very slightly wide slot for the nut position with my fret saw, and then the nut face ends up at the front of the slot while all the frets are in the middle of their slots.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia. 
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#17
11-19-2021, 04:16 PM
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With a 0.023" fret slot, the nut compensation is already half that, or around 0.012". When I have researched nut compensation, it is usually a bit more.....around 0.025" to 0.030".
I set the neck angle on my new guitars so that a straightedge laid on top of the frets will be 0.390" above the top at the bridge. Bridge thickness is 0.350". My tops are built with a small amount of radius, but the rim is kept flat. Tension compensation is mostly done at the saddle. That creates a proper proportional effect, since the action rises up the neck, and that fixed amount of compensation becomes an increasingly larger percentage as the fret spacing becomes smaller. The issue near the nut arises because fretting there bends the string at a sharper angle, increasing the tension in a disproportionate fashion. Making sure the nut is no higher than the fret plane helps, but the issue is still there, and calls for a bit of nut compensation. Last edited by John Arnold; 11-20-2021 at 10:52 AM.
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#18
11-21-2021, 01:08 PM
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Same guitar, same problem. I've cut my nut super low. Also, I compensated the saddle (by filing it and lengthening the distance for the low E string to break over the saddle -- similar to the way the B string is compensated), which has helped a lot. Yamaha uses a very thick saddle on the Japanese made guitars.
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As my username suggests, huge fan of Yamaha products. Own many acoustic-electric models from 2009-present and a couple electric. Lots of PA too.
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#19
11-22-2021, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
The LL guitars built in the same factory are a slightly different scale length (25.5 rather than 25). So the FG red label guitars would have needed new machine set ups. And that's where I would look for any errors.
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I'm learning to flatpick and fingerpick guitar to accompany songs. I've played and studied traditional noter/drone mountain dulcimer for many years. And I used to play dobro in a bluegrass band. Last edited by Robin, Wales; 11-22-2021 at 02:21 AM.
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