#91
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Yes sir brother Paul...and you know what this feels like...and can probably guess what it sounds like. John's cantilevered neck design brings another dimension to some already amazing tone. Articulate, resonant, and it has some 'growl factor"...oh yeah!! Your #4 isn't far behind!!
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Yeh buddy...well put... 'ain't that a thing' !! When you get this turned back side up, the waves are very deep and clear...3D stuff that, yes reminds me of my first and last ocean fishing trip I took a number of years ago...it was a trip I won't forget and wish i could forget...a belly bomber ha!!
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"A good name is to be chosen rather than great riches, and favor is better than silver or gold." Woody (aka: Mike) FOR SALE: Kinnaird Brazilian!! Last edited by invguy921; 04-20-2018 at 09:27 AM. |
#92
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"Thanks Doug! Ya know, I thought about that and wondered if someone might think it is going on the block anytime soon. The answer is my plan is to absolutely keep this one. Honestly, I bought and sold SOOO many guitars, I'm ready to settle into one for a long time. "
Seriously though, Enjoy your beautiful new guitar Mike! It looks great. Travis |
#93
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My golf clubs are out and ready, and the guitar needs you to play it. Let's get together soon!
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"A good name is to be chosen rather than great riches, and favor is better than silver or gold." Woody (aka: Mike) FOR SALE: Kinnaird Brazilian!! |
#94
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Thanks for your kind comments everyone.
Mike, I am really glad you like the sound. I thought it was nice but a little consensual validation is also nice. Travis, i understand where you are coming from. Time will tell.🤔
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Kinnaird Guitars |
#95
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two questions: 1. It looks like you have inlaid bubinga into your ebony bridge pins? 2. This is something I have always wondered about the smiley face Bridge pin set design. I would think that the break angle on the saddle is much less on the middle strings(4th&3rd) Which might provide more sustain for those strings. so is done to: A. Is this done to Bring out Sustain and or midrange of those two strings-bringing Rosewood overtones with Mahogany midrange bump..or something like that? B. Or is something else going on to compensate for the difference in break angle for those two strings under the bridge? C. Or something else entirely? |
#96
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#97
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#98
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Break angle is pretty important on guitars with a floating bridge, a tailpiece and string tension holding the bridge against the top. Like an arch top guitar, fiddle, chello etc. Then the more break angle the more downward force on the bridge. Vibrating strings pump the bridge up and down and a larger break angle increases the mechanical advantage of the strings to motivate the top. On this guitar with no tail piece, where the strings anchor into the bridge, the vibrating strings cause rocking motion on the bridge. The saddle becomes the lever arm of that rocker. The taller the saddle, the greater the mechanical advantage and incidentally the greater the break angle. But, this increased break angle is irrelevant. The bridge and saddle would work just as well if there were no break angle and the strings somehow fastened directly to the top of the saddle. Since that is hard to design most flattop bridges fasten the strings elsewhere. All that is required is enough of an angle to keep the string in contact with saddle with sufficient downward force to prevent buzzing (which aint much angle) Since break angle is not very critical in this kind of bridge, stylistic concerns dictate bridge pin placement. Mike wanted the pins to follow the curve of the back of the bridge. Choice C.
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Kinnaird Guitars |
#99
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Sorry, I got so carried away answering your second question that I forgot the first. I did inlay a reddish wood in those pins. I actually think, but won't swear to it that I inlayed padouk. You know, just grabbed a scrap laying around the shop that looked right. Could have been by bubinga but I'm thinking padouk. But thanks for noticing.
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Kinnaird Guitars |
#100
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Anyway....it looks fantastic and those little touches add up to the overall beauty. |
#101
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I clamp a little block of wood into a vice on the drill press table, then drill a small hole in that wood and then replace the drill bit with a tapered reamer to make a pocket for the pin. I never move the block of wood so when i replace the reamer with a drill bit for the inlay and put the pin in that wood block its perfectly lined up. I dont believe i could ever line that up any other way and my hat is off to those who can. I have never tried bone but i bet bit wander is a real challenge.
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Kinnaird Guitars |
#102
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I was a custom Knife maker for many years, retired now, but keep my website up for fun. http://www.victorsmithknives.com/ And that is where I learned the art of drilling holes. I have given all of my super fancy inlays bridge pins away..multi pins like in my knives. So no fancy pins here...Just copper tubes and Copper tube over solid brass. Through all of my experiments...I only inlay a very small copper tube. You can see some of them in this picture with bone and Black Horn pins(however now I inlay even smaller tube). Of course any of the pins shown with ab or pearl are stock bought. They are not as beautiful as your Paduak pins. However I am doing them for sonic reasons(please don't come down on me to hard for doing so..we all have a path that we follow for various reasons=ha ha). Anyway...I truly admire your guitar builds...stunning. And greatly appreciate all the fine explanation you have offered. * If I had a do-over in life..it would be to be come an acoustic guitar builder. While I have had my share of reasonable accomplishments in life...I can think of nothing more rewarding than producing an instrument with golden tones. Music..and the quest for that perfect tone keeps us all young. |
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That is really beautiful stuff. Im certainly impressed.
Do you still make the occasional knife?
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Kinnaird Guitars |
#104
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Can you be persuDed to sell tuner knobs and pins?
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Kinnaird Guitars |
#105
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You are way to kind...I am just a hole driller for stock pins..ha ha...I just take stock pins and drill holes in them and add my little tubes. And The way I do it takes way to much time. I use a special Knife epoxy to bond copper-brass in the tubes. Unfortunately..this takes clamping and 24 hours to dry. I overcut the tube and then sand down... ..must go slowly even with soft copper and brass as to not heat up the epoxy to much and cut into the bone. And then to the buffer.Way to much time for a simple set up like I have. And quite frankly...this method is only good for the first two strings. Not sure they are beneficial to the rest.
Some of Tuner knobs are from Charis...beautiful work he does. He sells them online for a most reasonable price and if you have not seen them yet...He does inlay into his tuner buttons...fantastic. https://www.charisacoustic.com/repla...tuner-buttons/ |