reglueing back: any advice?

[otherone]

Restoring a 1966 Silvertone Classical. cedar top, laminate mahogany 3 ply back and sides, bone nut and saddle, rosewood fret board and bridge. not bad for the $12 I paid for it in 1987.

removed the back; re-glued all the back braces (unglued on both sides); re-glued the top braces and fixed a few cracks; re-glued the tail block; removed and re-glued the bridge; filled the kerfing (basically 3/16 x 1/2 inch stripping) cracks with dust and super-glue - there was a 5 inch piece of kerfing missing, so I bent some basswood and glued that up; repaired all the laminate cracks on the back with super-glue; and now am ready to glue on the back...

never have glued a back before. my dry run took 10 minutes, and I am not sure I will have time to use tite bond before it starts setting up. the back is glued to curved braces, so there's that. everything seems to line up, but there are a few places where I need to muscle it a bit to make it flush.

Without any guidance, my gut tells me to apply glue to the top half (from the neck to the waist), get a few clamps in place and line it all up. and then apply glue to the lower bout and finish the job.

Any tips for a first timer? I am a guitar player with a few hundred hours of woodworking under my belt. I have done some precise work in the past that I am proud of, but don't want to be over-confident here. I am super amateur when it comes to instruments. This was my first guitar, and has taken a beating before I knew better. Even with 75% of ALL the braces unglued, the tone is ridiculously beautiful, and I hope to pass this along to my kids someday.

thanks!

[mirwa]

Just glue and clamp in one go, 10 minutes seems a bit long to clamp it all up, reckon you can do it way faster than that. Titebond is fine

Steve

[redir]

You could get some Titebond Extend or Fish Glue if you are worried about open time.