#1
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Binding Channels
Quick question ...
I understand that many luthiers use a light coat of shellac to seal the edges prior to routing the binding / purfling channels. I wanted to know if I could use a light coat of wipe on poly (minwax) to the same affect? or would it create adhesion problems when gluing in the edge trim? Thanks. Nahil. |
#2
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Are you trying to minimize the risk of tear out when routing?
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#3
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I've never sealed the surfaces before routing the binding/purfling channels and I've had zero problems.
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#4
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I've watched videos of Jerry Rosa on Ytube many times rout the relief for the binding and he never coats it with anything.
Just don't rush it. Ron |
#5
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If there is any doubt whatsoever about how sharp your router but is, put in a new one. Go slowly, and inch or two a second, and climb cut the whole way. Do not let the router get away on you, and do NOT cut in the other direction, even as a clean out. I have never sealed before cutting.
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#6
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Thanks guys, I think it was a Robbie O'Brien video I was watching where he applied a light shellac washcoat.
I guess I will just work slowly with sharp bits The back was attached yesterday!! I'll hopefully post some photos soon. Cheers, Nahil. |
#7
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Shellac is often times used because it will also be used as a base coat on the instrument. If you were going to finish the instrument with the Polyurethane then I's say sure go for it. If not then no.
I have used it before routing bindings. I think the idea is that it acts as a sort of glue. I'm not sure it makes much of a difference. I do still do it though not so much for the purpose of holding wood fibers together but once the binding is cut then when I use tape or rope to clamp the bindings on it's good to have shellac around the perimeter so that tape does not pull up wood fibers and any glue squeeze out doesn't stain the wood and is easier to clean up. |
#8
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Quote:
That said, wipe-on poly would serve the same purpose. It doesn't need to be a thick coat to prevent tape from pulling-up wood fibres. Shellac dries almost instantly, though, whereas poly will take at least an hour or more. |
#9
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To answer the OP's question. It just adds alot of time to your build to do it that way. Low tack masking tape on the more tear out prone areas is faster and does the exact same thing with less work. |
#10
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Tried that. It doesn't prevent it.
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#11
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Knowing the runout direction helps when removing tape but it's been my experience that is not foolproof either. Shellac on the other hand is. I like it as a preventative measure.
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#12
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Thanks for the responses guys. It makes sense to use a preventative measure to protect the guitar, especially if it takes such a short time.
I am building with an Engelmann top so I may apply a light coat of poly to the area to be routed. I will also be finishing the guitar with it so nothing to lose and potential tearout risk reduced! |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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Sounds like a good solution. Thanks for sharing it.
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#15
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Just be careful not to fry your fingers. The air coming out of a garden variety blow drier can be surprisingly hot.
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