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  #1  
Old 02-27-2021, 05:04 AM
viento viento is offline
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Default How long leaving clamps on...

I glued a new striped ebony bridge (Crelicam Ebony) with fishglue
on a red cedar top.
Even though it is a pin-less bridge, it should sit reliably tight -

How long should I leave the clamps on?

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  #2  
Old 02-27-2021, 07:40 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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I typically leave clamps on overnight
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:51 AM
redir redir is offline
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For a bridge with Fish glue I would leave for no less then 24 hours.
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Old 02-27-2021, 07:58 AM
viento viento is offline
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Yes, I think so as well.
I will leave it for about 2 and a half days to be on the sure side.
I´m going to take off the clamps during monday...they are on since
thursday late afternoon.
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Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes
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  #5  
Old 02-27-2021, 08:56 AM
redir redir is offline
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Well that's a bit over kill

Fish glue recommends 12 hours but for a bridge or a bridge plate I go 24. I don't use Fish much anymore except on torrified tops and there you definitely want to clamp for 24 hours.
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  #6  
Old 02-27-2021, 12:01 PM
viento viento is offline
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Thanks for your advices!
My insecurity comes from the fact that I am making a pinless bridge for the very first time.
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Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes
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  #7  
Old 02-27-2021, 12:29 PM
Rudy4 Rudy4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viento View Post
I glued a new striped ebony bridge (Crelicam Ebony) with fishglue
on a red cedar top.
Even though it is a pin-less bridge, it should sit reliably tight -

How long should I leave the clamps on?

I'd leave it clamped 24 hours.

Pinless bridges can be difficult to implement correctly. I did the rear holes as you show in your photo and the first time I tuned to pitch the wedging action of the ball ends against the chamfered holes caused the entire bridge to split, with the top edge between the string ramps and ball end recesses shooting across the shop.

I like the IDEA of the pinless bridge and my Lowden cedar-topped guitar had no problem in the twenty years I owned it, but I don't do them very often.
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2021, 12:42 PM
viento viento is offline
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Well, I dared for the first time...and if it pops up some day I will renew the hole top again.

Maybe one could put metal washers at the rear openings under the ball ends of the strings
or a thin metal strip with countersunk holes for the ball ends of the strings...?
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Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes

Last edited by viento; 03-24-2021 at 04:56 AM.
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